I want to build a rig that will be able to pretty much handle any game. I don't need something that is over-the-top crazy, but something that can run any game good! I need everything, including a case.
-I prefer an Intel processor (unless someone can sell me on an AMD one)
-I prefer Nvidia video card(s)
I don't know if it's better to run one beastly video card, or setup SLi with two. I will only be running one monitor if that matters at all (Sony Bravia 26" LCD HDTV).
I don't really know much about motherboards
Can you guys reccommend me some hardware for a rig?
Budget ~$1500 (possibly a little more if needed)
Sorry if this is the wrong section. Feel free to move, or even lock if you don't 'allow' threads like this.
Thanks
-I prefer an Intel processor (unless someone can sell me on an AMD one)
-I prefer Nvidia video card(s)
I don't know if it's better to run one beastly video card, or setup SLi with two. I will only be running one monitor if that matters at all (Sony Bravia 26" LCD HDTV).
I don't really know much about motherboards
Can you guys reccommend me some hardware for a rig?
Budget ~$1500 (possibly a little more if needed)
Sorry if this is the wrong section. Feel free to move, or even lock if you don't 'allow' threads like this.
Thanks
Hey there,
Im myself am not in the Intel game I have lost track of how they rate their chips.
As for gaming your better off going with a single high end card and then down the road grab a second card of the same kind when the price drops and games are requiring more power. The other thing to look at is ram i would do 8 gigs of ram to give the games more room to load and a fast hard drive.
Im myself am not in the Intel game I have lost track of how they rate their chips.
As for gaming your better off going with a single high end card and then down the road grab a second card of the same kind when the price drops and games are requiring more power. The other thing to look at is ram i would do 8 gigs of ram to give the games more room to load and a fast hard drive.
1500 can get you a nice looking rig, more so if you don't have to spend money on a Monitor... what about Keyboard and Mouse? Do you need that as well?
I also like Intel/Nvidia over AMD/ATI but last time I built my rig the new Intel chipsets were not out so I won't do much.
All I can tell you is that the most important thing is to have patience as here is when you can get the best deals, if you hurry, you won't save or buy as much. Another thing I learn the hard way mind you, is that motherboard/RAM/CPU is something you must check before you buy, compatibility issues are a mother bear
So, chillax and sitback, we'll start finding something for you yet!
I also like Intel/Nvidia over AMD/ATI but last time I built my rig the new Intel chipsets were not out so I won't do much.
All I can tell you is that the most important thing is to have patience as here is when you can get the best deals, if you hurry, you won't save or buy as much. Another thing I learn the hard way mind you, is that motherboard/RAM/CPU is something you must check before you buy, compatibility issues are a mother bear
So, chillax and sitback, we'll start finding something for you yet!
�� Quote: Originally Posted by AstaLaVista 
1500 can get you a nice looking rig, more so if you don't have to spend money on a Monitor... what about Keyboard and Mouse? Do you need that as well?
I also like Intel/Nvidia over AMD/ATI but last time I built my rig the new Intel chipsets were not out so I won't do much.
All I can tell you is that the most important thing is to have patience as here is when you can get the best deals, if you hurry, you won't save or buy as much. Another thing I learn the hard way mind you, is that motherboard/RAM/CPU is something you must check before you buy, compatibility issues are a mother bear
So, chillax and sitback, we'll start finding something for you yet!
I also like Intel/Nvidia over AMD/ATI but last time I built my rig the new Intel chipsets were not out so I won't do much.
All I can tell you is that the most important thing is to have patience as here is when you can get the best deals, if you hurry, you won't save or buy as much. Another thing I learn the hard way mind you, is that motherboard/RAM/CPU is something you must check before you buy, compatibility issues are a mother bear
So, chillax and sitback, we'll start finding something for you yet!
And yes that it what I am worried about, compatibility issues!
Thanks
I'm an AMD guy but that's just me. Here's what I would build if I didn't already have my rig.
AMD Phenom II x4 965BE ($160)
8 GB memory (not sure here as the OCZ memory that I have and love isn't made anymore)
Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3 ($105)
Antec TP-750 ($130)
CoolerMaster HAF-932 Advanced ($160)
CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ ($35)
WD1001FALS, 1 TB WD Black ($90)
Win 7 HP 64-bit OEM ($100)
XFX HD-687A-ZNFC, Radeon 6870 ($225)
Total (not including memory) is just over $1000. All prices are USD priced from Newegg. With my gaming system I could play MW2 while it ran a system backup or virus scan and had little lag or performance hit, and that was before I upgraded to 8 GB memory and got the correct memory for my system (originally had OCZ Platinum, OCZ recommends the Black Edition for the AMD BE CPU, replaced and it resolved issues I was having).
I'm not certain on the video card, I'm an nVidia guy but I know guys playing Black Ops on the 5770.
For the HDD, I wouldn't go super crazy on SSD just yet, I'm running a WD Black 1 TB (same as the one I spec'd out) and am consistently one of the first to load into maps on Black Ops.
My 955 BE with GTX470 gets 70-100 FPS in Black Ops, I really don't see a HUGE need for more than a quad-core for gaming.
You may not HAVE to get the Hyper 212+ (aftermarket CPU cooler) but with those it's best to get it and install it when you build rather than decide later that you need/want it and have to take the system apart to install it.
AMD Phenom II x4 965BE ($160)
8 GB memory (not sure here as the OCZ memory that I have and love isn't made anymore)
Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3 ($105)
Antec TP-750 ($130)
CoolerMaster HAF-932 Advanced ($160)
CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ ($35)
WD1001FALS, 1 TB WD Black ($90)
Win 7 HP 64-bit OEM ($100)
XFX HD-687A-ZNFC, Radeon 6870 ($225)
Total (not including memory) is just over $1000. All prices are USD priced from Newegg. With my gaming system I could play MW2 while it ran a system backup or virus scan and had little lag or performance hit, and that was before I upgraded to 8 GB memory and got the correct memory for my system (originally had OCZ Platinum, OCZ recommends the Black Edition for the AMD BE CPU, replaced and it resolved issues I was having).
I'm not certain on the video card, I'm an nVidia guy but I know guys playing Black Ops on the 5770.
For the HDD, I wouldn't go super crazy on SSD just yet, I'm running a WD Black 1 TB (same as the one I spec'd out) and am consistently one of the first to load into maps on Black Ops.
My 955 BE with GTX470 gets 70-100 FPS in Black Ops, I really don't see a HUGE need for more than a quad-core for gaming.
You may not HAVE to get the Hyper 212+ (aftermarket CPU cooler) but with those it's best to get it and install it when you build rather than decide later that you need/want it and have to take the system apart to install it.
Nice looking combo and a very good price... and a Sandy Bridge to boot!
Newegg.com - Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, LED LCD TV, Digital Cameras and more!
If you decide to pull the pin, go to the Asus site and check what they recommend for RAM and then we'll start looking for a good price as well.
GTX460... 110.00 after MiR
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc..._-14121390-L0A
Another nice Combo... I don't know whether the PSU will do for everything you will need though... someone here will chime in for sure.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboD...mbo632095-LM1A
Here you can find some good prices on Drives and other things you may be missing.
http://promotions.newegg.com/neemail...E0-_-PromoWord
Newegg.com - Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, LED LCD TV, Digital Cameras and more!
If you decide to pull the pin, go to the Asus site and check what they recommend for RAM and then we'll start looking for a good price as well.
GTX460... 110.00 after MiR
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc..._-14121390-L0A
Another nice Combo... I don't know whether the PSU will do for everything you will need though... someone here will chime in for sure.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboD...mbo632095-LM1A
Here you can find some good prices on Drives and other things you may be missing.
http://promotions.newegg.com/neemail...E0-_-PromoWord
�� Quote: Originally Posted by mlevy I'm an AMD guy but that's just me. Here's what I would build if I didn't already have my rig.
AMD Phenom II x4 965BE ($160)
8 GB memory (not sure here as the OCZ memory that I have and love isn't made anymore)
Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3 ($105)
Antec TP-750 ($130)
CoolerMaster HAF-932 Advanced ($160)
CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ ($35)
WD1001FALS, 1 TB WD Black ($90)
Win 7 HP 64-bit OEM ($100)
XFX HD-687A-ZNFC, Radeon 6870 ($225)
Total (not including memory) is just over $1000. All prices are USD priced from Newegg. With my gaming system I could play MW2 while it ran a system backup or virus scan and had little lag or performance hit, and that was before I upgraded to 8 GB memory and got the correct memory for my system (originally had OCZ Platinum, OCZ recommends the Black Edition for the AMD BE CPU, replaced and it resolved issues I was having).
I'm not certain on the video card, I'm an nVidia guy but I know guys playing Black Ops on the 5770.
For the HDD, I wouldn't go super crazy on SSD just yet, I'm running a WD Black 1 TB (same as the one I spec'd out) and am consistently one of the first to load into maps on Black Ops.
My 955 BE with GTX470 gets 70-100 FPS in Black Ops, I really don't see a HUGE need for more than a quad-core for gaming.
You may not HAVE to get the Hyper 212+ (aftermarket CPU cooler) but with those it's best to get it and install it when you build rather than decide later that you need/want it and have to take the system apart to install it.
AMD Phenom II x4 965BE ($160)
8 GB memory (not sure here as the OCZ memory that I have and love isn't made anymore)
Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3 ($105)
Antec TP-750 ($130)
CoolerMaster HAF-932 Advanced ($160)
CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ ($35)
WD1001FALS, 1 TB WD Black ($90)
Win 7 HP 64-bit OEM ($100)
XFX HD-687A-ZNFC, Radeon 6870 ($225)
Total (not including memory) is just over $1000. All prices are USD priced from Newegg. With my gaming system I could play MW2 while it ran a system backup or virus scan and had little lag or performance hit, and that was before I upgraded to 8 GB memory and got the correct memory for my system (originally had OCZ Platinum, OCZ recommends the Black Edition for the AMD BE CPU, replaced and it resolved issues I was having).
I'm not certain on the video card, I'm an nVidia guy but I know guys playing Black Ops on the 5770.
For the HDD, I wouldn't go super crazy on SSD just yet, I'm running a WD Black 1 TB (same as the one I spec'd out) and am consistently one of the first to load into maps on Black Ops.
My 955 BE with GTX470 gets 70-100 FPS in Black Ops, I really don't see a HUGE need for more than a quad-core for gaming.
You may not HAVE to get the Hyper 212+ (aftermarket CPU cooler) but with those it's best to get it and install it when you build rather than decide later that you need/want it and have to take the system apart to install it.
I suggest to the poster to get a higher end PC than this mid-range AMD PC. Not saying I dislike AMD.
This is more like it (using european currency here):
Intel Core i7 2600K Boxed
�260,-
Asrock P67 Extreme4 (B3)
�135,-
OCZ Obsidian DDR3 PC3-12800 Triple Channel
6GB Triple Channel Kit DDR3-kit
�65,-
Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold 800W
�135,-
Western Digital Caviar Green WD10EARS, 1TB
�50,-
MSI R6970-2PM2D2GD5
�270,-
Corsair Obsidian CC650DW
�140,-
------------------------------------
This would give a total of about �1055. This is a great High-end system and with this motherboard there is room to add another HD6970 (or even a third one :P) later.
Thanks for all the input guys! I am going to look into further about the hardware you suggested and reply back again.
**NOTE - I do not need to purchase Win 7, as I already have it waiting to be installed.
**NOTE - I do not need to purchase Win 7, as I already have it waiting to be installed.
I would also recommend the Phenom X4 965, im gonna upgrade to that one soon. As for a case i would recommend the NZXT Lexa S. Newegg.com - NZXT LEXA S LEXS - 001BK Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Though you probably have plenty of configurations to go by, take a took at this. The last configuration ( with the removal of second GPU would be right in your budget). You could also get the Second GPU later when the price dropped and you wanted an upgrade. Prices are Australian.
Robin,
Not sure what you consider "way too expensive" for the case, but the case I suggested was only $160 where the one YOU suggested is $210 from the same source. The PSU you suggest is $160, vs. the $130 one I suggested.
Also, what exactly is wrong with the 965? For GAMING, CPU has much less impact than the GPU. As I mentioned, my 955 system consistently loads me into maps faster than the rest of the players on servers when I'm playing Black Ops, with this "mid-range" 955 and a standard HDD (no SSD).
A Caviar GREEN? You DO realize that's a 5400 RPM drive, right? That's a ludicrous suggestion for the primary drive in such a system. I would hope you suggest an SSD to go with that. Caviar Black is a great drive.
Not sure what you consider "way too expensive" for the case, but the case I suggested was only $160 where the one YOU suggested is $210 from the same source. The PSU you suggest is $160, vs. the $130 one I suggested.
Also, what exactly is wrong with the 965? For GAMING, CPU has much less impact than the GPU. As I mentioned, my 955 system consistently loads me into maps faster than the rest of the players on servers when I'm playing Black Ops, with this "mid-range" 955 and a standard HDD (no SSD).
A Caviar GREEN? You DO realize that's a 5400 RPM drive, right? That's a ludicrous suggestion for the primary drive in such a system. I would hope you suggest an SSD to go with that. Caviar Black is a great drive.
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help! I am going to start piecing together a rig and then post it and see what you guys think of it.
Couple questions first:
-How would two GeForce GTX460's be for gaming
-What size case do I need, mid or full?
Thanks
Couple questions first:
-How would two GeForce GTX460's be for gaming
-What size case do I need, mid or full?
Thanks
For the 460, a mid SHOULD do, the picture below shows a GTX 470 in a Coolermaster Cosmos case. You can compare the card to the MB.
PassMark Software - Video Card Benchmark Charts has comparison charts for video cards.
If you're going to spend the money on 2 GTX460's, why not just get a GTX560 or GTX570 now and then SLI it down the road. One thing to watch out for, SLI boards for an AMD system can be hard to come by if you're looking for a good board. You may HAVE to go with an Intel system if you want SLI, but Crossfire will be possible on the one I put together, which is why I put on a 1-step-down video card from AMD/ATI. I've never been one to buy the absolute top-line card, the huge cost difference (I think it was on the order of $100 more for the 480 when I got my 470) just doesn't seem comparable to the performance difference.
PassMark Software - Video Card Benchmark Charts has comparison charts for video cards.
If you're going to spend the money on 2 GTX460's, why not just get a GTX560 or GTX570 now and then SLI it down the road. One thing to watch out for, SLI boards for an AMD system can be hard to come by if you're looking for a good board. You may HAVE to go with an Intel system if you want SLI, but Crossfire will be possible on the one I put together, which is why I put on a 1-step-down video card from AMD/ATI. I've never been one to buy the absolute top-line card, the huge cost difference (I think it was on the order of $100 more for the 480 when I got my 470) just doesn't seem comparable to the performance difference.
Those 955 and 965 chips will bottleneck Battlefield Bad Company 2 and COD Black Ops.
AMD 1090T or higher 6core, i7 870, i7 2500K or i7 2600K would be what I would choose.
My rig and my brothers rig play both of those games great at 1920x1080 with max settings.
His is an AMD 1090T 6 core, Asus board, 12GB DDR3 (2x4GB & 2x2GB sticks) AMD 6850, 650watt Antec PSU 5 internal hard drives.
Mine is an Intel i7 870, Asus Board, 16GB Ram, AMD 5850, 650watt Antec PSU, 9 internal hard drives, BluRay combo drive.
Build one that is better than either of ours and you will have a decent gaming rig.
AMD 1090T or higher 6core, i7 870, i7 2500K or i7 2600K would be what I would choose.
My rig and my brothers rig play both of those games great at 1920x1080 with max settings.
His is an AMD 1090T 6 core, Asus board, 12GB DDR3 (2x4GB & 2x2GB sticks) AMD 6850, 650watt Antec PSU 5 internal hard drives.
Mine is an Intel i7 870, Asus Board, 16GB Ram, AMD 5850, 650watt Antec PSU, 9 internal hard drives, BluRay combo drive.
Build one that is better than either of ours and you will have a decent gaming rig.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by mlevy If you're going to spend the money on 2 GTX460's, why not just get a GTX560 or GTX570 now and then SLI it down the road.
A single fast card would be a better option.
And for gaming, 4GB is plenty. 8GB+ is nice, but definitely not necessary.
Here is what I came up with as of now.
EVGA 131-GT-E767-TR LGA 1366 Intel X58 SLI 3 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Newegg.com - EVGA 131-GT-E767-TR LGA 1366 Intel X58 SLI 3 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core i7-960 Bloomfield 3.2GHz
Newegg.com - Intel Core i7-960 Bloomfield 3.2GHz 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80601960
GeForce GTX 570
Newegg.com - ASUS ENGTX570 DCII/2DIS/1280MD5 GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
G.Skill Ripjaws 8GB (2 x 4GB)
Newegg.com - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL
Western Digitial Cavair Black 1TB
Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Antec 1200 V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower
Newegg.com - Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
Antec TruePower 750W
Newegg.com - Antec TruePower New TP-750 Blue 750W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC "compatible with Core i7/Core i5" Power Supply
Samsung CD/DVD Burner
Newegg.com - SAMSUNG Black 22X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 22X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA CD/DVD Burner - CD / DVD Burners
This would set me back below my budget which is good!
Only thing I am a little unsure about is if that mobo will be compatible with all the other hardware.
Does this look like a solid rig? And am I missing anything?
EVGA 131-GT-E767-TR LGA 1366 Intel X58 SLI 3 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Newegg.com - EVGA 131-GT-E767-TR LGA 1366 Intel X58 SLI 3 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core i7-960 Bloomfield 3.2GHz
Newegg.com - Intel Core i7-960 Bloomfield 3.2GHz 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80601960
GeForce GTX 570
Newegg.com - ASUS ENGTX570 DCII/2DIS/1280MD5 GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
G.Skill Ripjaws 8GB (2 x 4GB)
Newegg.com - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL
Western Digitial Cavair Black 1TB
Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Antec 1200 V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower
Newegg.com - Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
Antec TruePower 750W
Newegg.com - Antec TruePower New TP-750 Blue 750W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC "compatible with Core i7/Core i5" Power Supply
Samsung CD/DVD Burner
Newegg.com - SAMSUNG Black 22X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 22X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA CD/DVD Burner - CD / DVD Burners
This would set me back below my budget which is good!
Only thing I am a little unsure about is if that mobo will be compatible with all the other hardware.
Does this look like a solid rig? And am I missing anything?
i7 2600K costs a little more and is 30% more powerful
i7 2500K is cheaper and is the same power as the i7 960.
Only thing you would need to change if you choose the i7 960 is the ram, you want a triple channel set, so you will either go with a 6GB or 12GB kit (3 sticks of 2GB or 3 sticks of 4GB)
Rest of the parts look fine.
If you go with the 2500 or 2600 procs, you have to select a different mobo.
i7 2500K is cheaper and is the same power as the i7 960.
Only thing you would need to change if you choose the i7 960 is the ram, you want a triple channel set, so you will either go with a 6GB or 12GB kit (3 sticks of 2GB or 3 sticks of 4GB)
Rest of the parts look fine.
If you go with the 2500 or 2600 procs, you have to select a different mobo.
Okay so I changed it to the i7 2600k and then changed the mobo and ram for this combo
Newegg.com - Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, LED LCD TV, Digital Cameras and more!
Does that look good?
That still puts me just below $1500 which is good.
Newegg.com - Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, LED LCD TV, Digital Cameras and more!
Does that look good?
That still puts me just below $1500 which is good.
The motherboard looks OK, but why do you need 16 GB of RAM?
Are there any better motherboards that you suggest? And that is true, 8GB is probably more than enough!
I'm an AMD person, but I don't mind Intel or nvidias mid-range cards. I'd say if you're going with nvidia, get two GTX560 Ti in SLI. For the CPU, I don't know if you're gaming, or doing allot of video editing, but Intel are better for heavy duty processing, and AMD are better for gaming (Since a gamer needs money for his games 
) and the Phenom X6 series is great for gaming and multitasking (For the price)
) and the Phenom X6 series is great for gaming and multitasking (For the price) Well, Ive said this before but Ill say it again.
8GB is nice .. I agree with the others. But if gaming is your Primary purpose for this build it may be money thats best spent elsewhere. (Only you know the answer to this)
My machine has 8GB and for Gaming & General Use its just too much. I rarely ever use over 4GB.
However, I do have a few 64bit apps that I use often, and in that case it is certainly nice to have.
Just something to keep in mind.
And don't get me wrong, if budget allows why not. Just don't expect your games or everyday activities to be taking advantage if it all.
Personally, I would go with the 8GB kit, but thats just me. I use enough apps that use the extra RAM it makes it worth having to me.
But I do honestly think anything over 8GB will be a waste of money for the large majority users.
For RAM, heres another 8GB set that may be worth considering:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145345
Costs a bit more, but is slightly faster @ DDR3 1600.
Although G-Skill is very good RAM, this is just another option.
CPU & MOBO:
If building new right now, I would certainly go with a Sandy Bridge CPU as well.
I would stick to Gigabyte or ASUS MOBOS as well.
GPU:
I also tend to agree with everyone else that a single powerful card would be the better bet now.
Less chance of any issues related to Crossfire/SLI as well.
I would reccomend looking into the HD6970, GTX570, or HD6950 currently, in the $300-$360 range, any of these 3 are very good.
Also-
For Nvidia GPUs, I would go with EVGA. Lifetime warranty & tradeup program is nice.
For ATI GPUs, Id look to Sapphire.
(All personal preference of course)
Just a couple thoughts and opinions for what its worth.
8GB is nice .. I agree with the others. But if gaming is your Primary purpose for this build it may be money thats best spent elsewhere. (Only you know the answer to this)
My machine has 8GB and for Gaming & General Use its just too much. I rarely ever use over 4GB.
However, I do have a few 64bit apps that I use often, and in that case it is certainly nice to have.
Just something to keep in mind.
And don't get me wrong, if budget allows why not. Just don't expect your games or everyday activities to be taking advantage if it all.
Personally, I would go with the 8GB kit, but thats just me. I use enough apps that use the extra RAM it makes it worth having to me.
But I do honestly think anything over 8GB will be a waste of money for the large majority users.
For RAM, heres another 8GB set that may be worth considering:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145345
Costs a bit more, but is slightly faster @ DDR3 1600.
Although G-Skill is very good RAM, this is just another option.
CPU & MOBO:
If building new right now, I would certainly go with a Sandy Bridge CPU as well.
I would stick to Gigabyte or ASUS MOBOS as well.
GPU:
I also tend to agree with everyone else that a single powerful card would be the better bet now.
Less chance of any issues related to Crossfire/SLI as well.
I would reccomend looking into the HD6970, GTX570, or HD6950 currently, in the $300-$360 range, any of these 3 are very good.
Also-
For Nvidia GPUs, I would go with EVGA. Lifetime warranty & tradeup program is nice.
For ATI GPUs, Id look to Sapphire.
(All personal preference of course)
Just a couple thoughts and opinions for what its worth.
SLI or Crossfire is and has been overrated imo, more so now when most if not all of the games are console ports... +1 on 1 good card and possibly another but much lesser card for PhysX if you really want to have 2 cards.
Would this be a good option for a single card?
Newegg.com - EVGA SuperClocked 012-P3-1572-AR GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Newegg.com - EVGA SuperClocked 012-P3-1572-AR GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
�� Quote: Originally Posted by AstaLaVista SLI or Crossfire is and has been overrated imo, more so now when most if not all of the games are console ports... +1 on 1 good card and possibly another but much lesser card for PhysX if you really want to have 2 cards.
I will have to update my specs since I just built a new machine and no longer using my laptop for gaming.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN Would this be a good option for a single card?
Newegg.com - EVGA SuperClocked 012-P3-1572-AR GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Newegg.com - EVGA SuperClocked 012-P3-1572-AR GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Just another option to consider.
The SC editions are basically the same card, except that the bios are pre-programed with a bit of a overclock.
SC is a good choice for those who want a little bit of a boost over reference designed cards, without having to OC them themselves.
Some prefer this route, others do not. Really your call which way you want to go.
It works the same way on the AMD side. For example, Sapphires "Toxic" lineup.
Nothing at all wrong with that card though. It should serve you well.
Personally, I would go with the SC edition if the price difference isnt too much. ATM, its only $10 more.
My reason is.. Although I like OCing, I usually dont OC my GPUs. I like the idea of a factory OC, and the lifetime warranty is nice.
Just set it up and leave it be. Although there will be different opinions on the matter, thats mine. At only $10 more, it is worth it IMHO.
I know you mentioned you're specifically looking at Intel/Nvidia, but I built an AMD/ATI beast that has very little bottleneck anywhere and is super optimized for gaming AND virtual machines. I built mine last year, in June, for ~$1000 USD--without buying keyboard, mouse, OS. I spent about a month and had around 5-10 people (Intel, engineers, etc) researching with me. Here's the specs (also in my profile):
OS
Win7 Ultimate x64, Server 2008 R2
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1055T Thuban 2.8GHz
Motherboard
GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
8GB G.SKILL Ripjaws Series DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Graphics Card(s)
HIS ATI Radeon HD 5830
Sound Card
Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme
Hard Drives
Patriot Torqx 128GB SSD
1TB Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm
2TB Hitachi Deskstar Coolspin 5400rpm
PSU
CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-750HX 750W
Case
Antec Nine Hundred
Cooling
Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CPU cooler
(air cooled from case fans)
Also bought a DVD-RW, etc.
This machine can run WoW, SC2 and L4D2 at the same time with NO LAG. I do not keed.
OS
Win7 Ultimate x64, Server 2008 R2
CPU
AMD Phenom II X6 1055T Thuban 2.8GHz
Motherboard
GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
8GB G.SKILL Ripjaws Series DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Graphics Card(s)
HIS ATI Radeon HD 5830
Sound Card
Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme
Hard Drives
Patriot Torqx 128GB SSD
1TB Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm
2TB Hitachi Deskstar Coolspin 5400rpm
PSU
CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-750HX 750W
Case
Antec Nine Hundred
Cooling
Cooler Master Hyper 212+ CPU cooler
(air cooled from case fans)
Also bought a DVD-RW, etc.
This machine can run WoW, SC2 and L4D2 at the same time with NO LAG. I do not keed.
Would this mobo be better than the Gigabyte one I suggested earlier?
Newegg.com - ASUS SABERTOOTH P67 (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
And thanks everyone for your input and help, I really do appreciate it.
Newegg.com - ASUS SABERTOOTH P67 (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
And thanks everyone for your input and help, I really do appreciate it.
Again, with the games being what they are, spending that much money on a super card is just a waste of time IMHO, look at my system specs, as of today, I can play any game (shooter game that is, as that is all I play) at max w/o a single problem... anything else is just overkill.
Being said that, if that is well within your budget... why not!
I am guessing you didn't like the combo I suggested for Mobo/CPU? I thought it was the dogs bollox
Being said that, if that is well within your budget... why not!
I am guessing you didn't like the combo I suggested for Mobo/CPU? I thought it was the dogs bollox
I actually skipped right over that combo you posted without even noticing. Looking at it now, and seems like a good combo. How does that i5 2600k compare to the i7 2700k, stock speeds not OC'd?
And would an aftermarket CPU cooler be needed with either of these processors, or is the OEM fine? I won't be OC'ing anytime soon.
And would an aftermarket CPU cooler be needed with either of these processors, or is the OEM fine? I won't be OC'ing anytime soon.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by AstaLaVista Again, with the games being what they are, spending that much money on a super card is just a waste of time IMHO, look at my system specs, as of today, I can play any game (shooter game that is, as that is all I play) at max w/o a single problem... anything else is just overkill.
Being said that, if that is well within your budget... why not!
Being said that, if that is well within your budget... why not!
If you're not OCing but will later, I wouldn't use stock coolers. In fact, I don't OC and I chucked the stock fan, got a Freezer 7 Pro, bought some arctic silver and my CPU almost never goes beyond 29 C.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN I want to build a rig that will be able to pretty much handle any game. I don't need something that is over-the-top crazy, but something that can run any game good! I need everything, including a case.
-I prefer an Intel processor (unless someone can sell me on an AMD one)
-I prefer Nvidia video card(s)
I don't know if it's better to run one beastly video card, or setup SLi with two. I will only be running one monitor if that matters at all (Sony Bravia 26" LCD HDTV).
I don't really know much about motherboards
Can you guys reccommend me some hardware for a rig?
Budget ~$1500 (possibly a little more if needed)
Sorry if this is the wrong section. Feel free to move, or even lock if you don't 'allow' threads like this.
Thanks
-I prefer an Intel processor (unless someone can sell me on an AMD one)
-I prefer Nvidia video card(s)
I don't know if it's better to run one beastly video card, or setup SLi with two. I will only be running one monitor if that matters at all (Sony Bravia 26" LCD HDTV).
I don't really know much about motherboards
Can you guys reccommend me some hardware for a rig?
Budget ~$1500 (possibly a little more if needed)
Sorry if this is the wrong section. Feel free to move, or even lock if you don't 'allow' threads like this.
Thanks
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 Pro
RAM: 4GB Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600
GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 570
SSD: OCZ Vertex 2 60GB (OS + few games)
HDD: Samsung F3 1TB (Storage)
Case: Corsair 600T
PSU: Seasonic X Series 650W
Keyboard: Logitech G110
Mouse: Logitech MX 518
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DS
TOTAL: $1480.88
SICK... SICK build.
Slacker, great build-- but I'd go with i5-2600K.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by hjonesMCT Slacker, great build-- but I'd go with i5-2600K.
It wouldn't be smart to spend an extra ~$100 (and compromise elsewhere) on something that would net you pretty much zero performance advantage when gaming.
Only in highly threaded applications the 2600K will pull ahead thanks to it's HT tech (but not by much).
�� Quote: Originally Posted by SlackerITGuy Little late to the party, but this is what I would go for:
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 Pro
RAM: 4GB Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600
GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 570
SSD: OCZ Vertex 2 60GB (OS + few games)
HDD: Samsung F3 1TB (Storage)
Case: Corsair 600T
PSU: Seasonic X Series 650W
Keyboard: Logitech G110
Mouse: Logitech MX 518
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DS
TOTAL: $1480.88
SICK... SICK build.
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 Pro
RAM: 4GB Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600
GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 570
SSD: OCZ Vertex 2 60GB (OS + few games)
HDD: Samsung F3 1TB (Storage)
Case: Corsair 600T
PSU: Seasonic X Series 650W
Keyboard: Logitech G110
Mouse: Logitech MX 518
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DS
TOTAL: $1480.88
SICK... SICK build.
How does this look?!
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 Pro
RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 570 Superclocked
SSD: OCZ Vertex Agility 2 100GB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Case: Antec 1200 V3 ATX Full Tower
PSU: Antec TruePower 750W Continous Power
CD/DVD Burner: Samsung
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 Pro
RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 570 Superclocked
SSD: OCZ Vertex Agility 2 100GB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Case: Antec 1200 V3 ATX Full Tower
PSU: Antec TruePower 750W Continous Power
CD/DVD Burner: Samsung
�� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN How does this look?!
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 Pro
RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 570 Superclocked
SSD: OCZ Vertex Agility 2 100GB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Case: Antec 1200 V3 ATX Full Tower
PSU: Antec TruePower 750W Continous Power
CD/DVD Burner: Samsung
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 Pro
RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 570 Superclocked
SSD: OCZ Vertex Agility 2 100GB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Case: Antec 1200 V3 ATX Full Tower
PSU: Antec TruePower 750W Continous Power
CD/DVD Burner: Samsung
Nice build mate.
The one thing I'd change is the video card, reference GTX 570s are known to have weak VRM's, meaning that in the case that you might want to overclock it, it's a possibility that it might die.
The one to get as of right now, is this one (just came out today):
Newegg.com - MSI N570GTX Twin Frozr III PE/OC GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Superb cooler, 6+1 phase, plus... It looks bad ass.
Okay, I will check that card out when I get home (on my phone now).
I'm not missing anything right? Just want to double check that I have everything for a COMPLETE build.
Thanks!!
I'm not missing anything right? Just want to double check that I have everything for a COMPLETE build.
Thanks!!
With regards to your video card I say go with what you're comfortable with. Everyone has an opinion on video cards and their performance.
Example: If you're not going to overclock the card.... does a supposed issue with VRM really matter to you? And is it a guarantee that you'll run into the issue if you do?
My point is we can get so caught up in so many what if's that we paralyze ourselves from getting anything.
Most items just work; they only don't work when we push them outside their design limits. Point: nothing is guaranteed to "overclock" - that is your warranty doesn't say we guarantee our product will overclock past its design specification.
It's always good to get advice but remember � you are the one who has to live with the purchase.
Just something to think about.
Example: If you're not going to overclock the card.... does a supposed issue with VRM really matter to you? And is it a guarantee that you'll run into the issue if you do?
My point is we can get so caught up in so many what if's that we paralyze ourselves from getting anything.
Most items just work; they only don't work when we push them outside their design limits. Point: nothing is guaranteed to "overclock" - that is your warranty doesn't say we guarantee our product will overclock past its design specification.
It's always good to get advice but remember � you are the one who has to live with the purchase.
Just something to think about.
You probably ought to order some thermal paste in case you ever need to remount the heatsink. Arctic Silver 5 is the standard recommendation.
I'd get some cable ties so I could keep the case as uncluttered as possible and improve airflow a bit. You can get them at Home Depot.
You may end up ordering replacement fans later if you have cooling issues.
I'd get some cable ties so I could keep the case as uncluttered as possible and improve airflow a bit. You can get them at Home Depot.
You may end up ordering replacement fans later if you have cooling issues.
Yes I understand that. I am probably going to stick with the card I chose, I just want to look at the other one suggested too.
I actually have a lot of cable ties already so that's a plus! Hoping for a super clean case
I actually have a lot of cable ties already so that's a plus! Hoping for a super clean case
�� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN Yes I understand that. I am probably going to stick with the card I chose, I just want to look at the other one suggested too.
I actually have a lot of cable ties already so that's a plus! Hoping for a super clean case
I actually have a lot of cable ties already so that's a plus! Hoping for a super clean case
Power Rig for sure, a bit to much for my taste but powerful nonetheless. Enjoy and have lots of fun building it. The most important part here is... Take your time.
It might be rather silly if looking at nvidia cards not to pick a sparkle or evga card they have lifetime warranties. The vid cards with all the cool looking coolers give lil or no more real world performance and they do add the extra heat back into your case. I think it is not very good sense to buy a brand just for its name and no life time warranty.. Not sure if you are into over clocking- but evga's warranty also covers over clocking. That is both evga mobos and vid cards are covered if over clocking.
When looking at mobos do not over look msi- price and quality and features and bench marks or over clocking msi is one of the best. I am not saying it because I have a msi mobo it is just the facts. Msi can easy edge out gigabyte and nip at the heels of asus if not better asus and cost less and have more features and longer warranty. Research research research.
As for thermal paste- do your research- folks must not read much- but silver 5 can cause you to ruin your rig and or cpu or gpu or something else on your mobo- ac silver 5 conducts electrical currents and has a life of about 2 years and then become brittle and has a 200 hour cure time. AC MX2 or 3 has a 8 year life no cure time and does not conduct electrical current and cools better by up to 6f or so. AC5 can ruin your day if you get sloppy with it- It is just the facts.
Also- this is a better psu and cost way less it has a single +12v rail and 52amps and is hard wired. Do your research- 1 sigle rail and hard wired are better than multi rails and modular wired psu's.. As a fact- many folks buy the modular units thinking they will or can use less wires. They normally do not use less wires and because the units are multi rails they have to use more wires to try and balance out the load over the rails. In a word You are guessing how much load is on each rail. Few if any modular pus's come with a detailed schematic that has wires numbered and which rails they are connected to to help you balance out the load. You do not have this dance with a solid rail psu- and the hard wired are more efficient.
1 more thing I like about the tx 650-750 they only need 10 wall socket amps to run them. Much over a 750 watt psu you need 15 amps or more at the wall socket to run it..
Corsair tx650- I would go tx750 my self and still cost way less than the other you are looking at.. The tx750 is surely a better psu and does cost less.. The tx750 has a nice 140mm fan and 60 amps and 4x 2+6 pin pcie connectors- less noise and stays cool. And both the corsairs have a 5 year warranty.>
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139005
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139006
Do as you like it is your rig- I hope you enjoy it.. Looks like it will be a nice rig.
When looking at mobos do not over look msi- price and quality and features and bench marks or over clocking msi is one of the best. I am not saying it because I have a msi mobo it is just the facts. Msi can easy edge out gigabyte and nip at the heels of asus if not better asus and cost less and have more features and longer warranty. Research research research.
As for thermal paste- do your research- folks must not read much- but silver 5 can cause you to ruin your rig and or cpu or gpu or something else on your mobo- ac silver 5 conducts electrical currents and has a life of about 2 years and then become brittle and has a 200 hour cure time. AC MX2 or 3 has a 8 year life no cure time and does not conduct electrical current and cools better by up to 6f or so. AC5 can ruin your day if you get sloppy with it- It is just the facts.
Also- this is a better psu and cost way less it has a single +12v rail and 52amps and is hard wired. Do your research- 1 sigle rail and hard wired are better than multi rails and modular wired psu's.. As a fact- many folks buy the modular units thinking they will or can use less wires. They normally do not use less wires and because the units are multi rails they have to use more wires to try and balance out the load over the rails. In a word You are guessing how much load is on each rail. Few if any modular pus's come with a detailed schematic that has wires numbered and which rails they are connected to to help you balance out the load. You do not have this dance with a solid rail psu- and the hard wired are more efficient.
1 more thing I like about the tx 650-750 they only need 10 wall socket amps to run them. Much over a 750 watt psu you need 15 amps or more at the wall socket to run it..
Corsair tx650- I would go tx750 my self and still cost way less than the other you are looking at.. The tx750 is surely a better psu and does cost less.. The tx750 has a nice 140mm fan and 60 amps and 4x 2+6 pin pcie connectors- less noise and stays cool. And both the corsairs have a 5 year warranty.>
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139005
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139006
Do as you like it is your rig- I hope you enjoy it.. Looks like it will be a nice rig.
In regards to Thermal Paste, I like MX-2 the best.
I used to use AS, but had switched to MX-2 a couple years ago and never looked back.
As far as performance, they seem about the same to me. But I honestly didnt test enough to make a accurate call in this regard.
But I find MX-2 is far easier to work with, which is why I prefer it.
Not that theres anything wrong with AS.
This, as with everything, is a matter of personal prefrence.
I used to use AS, but had switched to MX-2 a couple years ago and never looked back.
As far as performance, they seem about the same to me. But I honestly didnt test enough to make a accurate call in this regard.
But I find MX-2 is far easier to work with, which is why I prefer it.
Not that theres anything wrong with AS.
This, as with everything, is a matter of personal prefrence.
Okay thank you all! I'm going to order everything tomorrow (actually changed my PSU to the one stated above, my buddy actually recommended that one over the one I picked too).
I want to thank you guys again, for helping me build this rig!
I will update the thread when I get everything
I want to thank you guys again, for helping me build this rig!
I will update the thread when I get everything
Congrats and good luck.
The p67's came out like 2 weeks after I built this my new rig. I still done good tho and being the first p67's was messed up- the new mobos are fixed tho or best I understand. Cost is about the same- but the p55 and p67's are great budget gamers- both over clock well but the p67's are real lil monsters. Both the p55 and p67's smoke anything amd- well up to its 6 core blacks any way- Smoke them in everything over clocked or not other than a few programs that can use over 4 cores or the one game dirt2..
Your rig should be smoking- and is no real over kill if you are or have gaming in mind. Over kill is for general office type use and anything much over a 8 year old p3. Most any old system can do office stuff or edit or convert video- might take longer but can be done even on a 400 or 450 mz p3 cpu even a mac. But they are not gaming rigs.. And ya- your version of windows dictates what hardware you might be able to use.
Have fun with your build- gaming and life.. See ya..
The p67's came out like 2 weeks after I built this my new rig. I still done good tho and being the first p67's was messed up- the new mobos are fixed tho or best I understand. Cost is about the same- but the p55 and p67's are great budget gamers- both over clock well but the p67's are real lil monsters. Both the p55 and p67's smoke anything amd- well up to its 6 core blacks any way- Smoke them in everything over clocked or not other than a few programs that can use over 4 cores or the one game dirt2..
Your rig should be smoking- and is no real over kill if you are or have gaming in mind. Over kill is for general office type use and anything much over a 8 year old p3. Most any old system can do office stuff or edit or convert video- might take longer but can be done even on a 400 or 450 mz p3 cpu even a mac. But they are not gaming rigs.. And ya- your version of windows dictates what hardware you might be able to use.
Have fun with your build- gaming and life.. See ya..
For NVidia video cards, I'd recommend the GTS250 or higher. It will play almost any game flawlessly (except newer games these days). I don't really play the newer games that come out, just the older games. I'm sure you'll want some better than the GTS250 though.
On the last page he is thinking nv gtx 570- just id go sparkle or evga- great card tho- I wish I had money to buy one- then my pc would be complete- or after I over clock my cpu to over 4 gigs anyway..
If thinking evga- read well the specs- some evga's do not have life time- all sparkles have life time..
If thinking evga- read well the specs- some evga's do not have life time- all sparkles have life time..
�� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN Okay thank you all! I'm going to order everything tomorrow (actually changed my PSU to the one stated above, my buddy actually recommended that one over the one I picked too).
I want to thank you guys again, for helping me build this rig!
I will update the thread when I get everything
I want to thank you guys again, for helping me build this rig!
I will update the thread when I get everything
That corsair memory should be fine but these stix might be a lil better.. Do not let pretty heat sinks fool ya- these are great ic's .. Also these crucails are of the few stix that can run t1. Many will argue but every lil bit helps and faster is faster be it cl timings or t1 or t2 timings.
The thing is intel and amd- AMD can not do t1 timings but intel can. Instead of making 2 types of memory and the fact that intel can use t2 memory why make both kinds. Most all corsairs and most other memory are t2- and the crucails over clock well and normally with no needed voltage increase. In fact many mem is t1 timings but sold as t2 to avoid confusion- and t1 mem can be ran at t2.. I can be confused its been awhile since I read on such things- maybe most is t1 but sold as t2. It surely has to be checked on amd rigs..
Read on mobo sites- seems folks have more probs using ripjaws- just something to think about.. Folks have better luck with the corsairs or crucails on intel mobos or newer mobos any way.
As a fact if you have picked out the mobo you care to use- post it and the rest of your specs [other stuff you are thinking about buying] in proper area at the mobos home site and ask how folks feel about compatibility. They will tell ya fast what is best or what others are having most trouble with..
Cost less and as good or better than the corsairs.. The corsairs you are looking at are pc1600- these are pc1333- which the 1600 is considered as over clocked- your mobo might act funny until you make some manual changes- but intel is not as funny about memory as amd- or the p55 or p67's any way so. If going to over clock you might drop that 1600 to 1333 anyway. Either way you should be good with either the corsairs or these crucails.. Also comments are saying specs at the egg say 1.5v for the corsairs but the sticker on the mem says 1.65v and is same postings on other sites- Your mobo might act nuts until you make some manual changes- I think the p67 defaults are 1333 and 1.5v same as the p55's..>
Newegg.com - Crucial 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model CT2KIT25664BA1339
With the extra money you will save on a psu- you can step up to 8 gigs memory.. Your mobo bios should see it right away with no adjustments.>
Newegg.com - Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model CT2KIT51264BA1339
The thing is intel and amd- AMD can not do t1 timings but intel can. Instead of making 2 types of memory and the fact that intel can use t2 memory why make both kinds. Most all corsairs and most other memory are t2- and the crucails over clock well and normally with no needed voltage increase. In fact many mem is t1 timings but sold as t2 to avoid confusion- and t1 mem can be ran at t2.. I can be confused its been awhile since I read on such things- maybe most is t1 but sold as t2. It surely has to be checked on amd rigs..
Read on mobo sites- seems folks have more probs using ripjaws- just something to think about.. Folks have better luck with the corsairs or crucails on intel mobos or newer mobos any way.
As a fact if you have picked out the mobo you care to use- post it and the rest of your specs [other stuff you are thinking about buying] in proper area at the mobos home site and ask how folks feel about compatibility. They will tell ya fast what is best or what others are having most trouble with..
Cost less and as good or better than the corsairs.. The corsairs you are looking at are pc1600- these are pc1333- which the 1600 is considered as over clocked- your mobo might act funny until you make some manual changes- but intel is not as funny about memory as amd- or the p55 or p67's any way so. If going to over clock you might drop that 1600 to 1333 anyway. Either way you should be good with either the corsairs or these crucails.. Also comments are saying specs at the egg say 1.5v for the corsairs but the sticker on the mem says 1.65v and is same postings on other sites- Your mobo might act nuts until you make some manual changes- I think the p67 defaults are 1333 and 1.5v same as the p55's..>
Newegg.com - Crucial 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model CT2KIT25664BA1339
With the extra money you will save on a psu- you can step up to 8 gigs memory.. Your mobo bios should see it right away with no adjustments.>
Newegg.com - Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model CT2KIT51264BA1339
Stalker soc calls- played justcause2 and mafia2 all day night yesterday.
Stalker and patch 10004 is running great for me- all maxed out other than in game aa- which is not real aa anyway- I can force aa in my vid card cp- but puts a large hit on my performance. Running all other maxed I get 75 to 86fps and no lower than 50 when recording- pretty sweet.
Soon I will install cop again and just run it in dx9- being my old vid card has trouble with the game and dx10. I should be able to max out cop fine in dx9 mode. Higher settings than xp and my older system anyway..
See ya.
Stalker and patch 10004 is running great for me- all maxed out other than in game aa- which is not real aa anyway- I can force aa in my vid card cp- but puts a large hit on my performance. Running all other maxed I get 75 to 86fps and no lower than 50 when recording- pretty sweet.
Soon I will install cop again and just run it in dx9- being my old vid card has trouble with the game and dx10. I should be able to max out cop fine in dx9 mode. Higher settings than xp and my older system anyway..
See ya.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by mlevy I'm an AMD guy but that's just me. Here's what I would build if I didn't already have my rig.
AMD Phenom II x4 965BE ($160)
8 GB memory (not sure here as the OCZ memory that I have and love isn't made anymore)
Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3 ($105)
Antec TP-750 ($130)
CoolerMaster HAF-932 Advanced ($160)
CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ ($35)
WD1001FALS, 1 TB WD Black ($90)
Win 7 HP 64-bit OEM ($100)
XFX HD-687A-ZNFC, Radeon 6870 ($225)
Total (not including memory) is just over $1000. All prices are USD priced from Newegg. With my gaming system I could play MW2 while it ran a system backup or virus scan and had little lag or performance hit, and that was before I upgraded to 8 GB memory and got the correct memory for my system (originally had OCZ Platinum, OCZ recommends the Black Edition for the AMD BE CPU, replaced and it resolved issues I was having).
I'm not certain on the video card, I'm an nVidia guy but I know guys playing Black Ops on the 5770.
For the HDD, I wouldn't go super crazy on SSD just yet, I'm running a WD Black 1 TB (same as the one I spec'd out) and am consistently one of the first to load into maps on Black Ops.
My 955 BE with GTX470 gets 70-100 FPS in Black Ops, I really don't see a HUGE need for more than a quad-core for gaming.
You may not HAVE to get the Hyper 212+ (aftermarket CPU cooler) but with those it's best to get it and install it when you build rather than decide later that you need/want it and have to take the system apart to install it.
AMD Phenom II x4 965BE ($160)
8 GB memory (not sure here as the OCZ memory that I have and love isn't made anymore)
Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3 ($105)
Antec TP-750 ($130)
CoolerMaster HAF-932 Advanced ($160)
CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ ($35)
WD1001FALS, 1 TB WD Black ($90)
Win 7 HP 64-bit OEM ($100)
XFX HD-687A-ZNFC, Radeon 6870 ($225)
Total (not including memory) is just over $1000. All prices are USD priced from Newegg. With my gaming system I could play MW2 while it ran a system backup or virus scan and had little lag or performance hit, and that was before I upgraded to 8 GB memory and got the correct memory for my system (originally had OCZ Platinum, OCZ recommends the Black Edition for the AMD BE CPU, replaced and it resolved issues I was having).
I'm not certain on the video card, I'm an nVidia guy but I know guys playing Black Ops on the 5770.
For the HDD, I wouldn't go super crazy on SSD just yet, I'm running a WD Black 1 TB (same as the one I spec'd out) and am consistently one of the first to load into maps on Black Ops.
My 955 BE with GTX470 gets 70-100 FPS in Black Ops, I really don't see a HUGE need for more than a quad-core for gaming.
You may not HAVE to get the Hyper 212+ (aftermarket CPU cooler) but with those it's best to get it and install it when you build rather than decide later that you need/want it and have to take the system apart to install it.
I actually didnt order it yet, but as I am going to shortly, I just have a quick question. Will this fit in a mid case, of should I just stay with the full that I have? Here is my build without my updated PSU though (quoted from a couple pages back incase you guys didn't see it).
�� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN
CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 Pro
RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 570 Superclocked
SSD: OCZ Vertex Agility 2 100GB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Case: Antec 1200 V3 ATX Full Tower
PSU: Antec TruePower 750W Continous Power
CD/DVD Burner: Samsung
�� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 Pro
RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 570 Superclocked
SSD: OCZ Vertex Agility 2 100GB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Case: Antec 1200 V3 ATX Full Tower
PSU: Antec TruePower 750W Continous Power
CD/DVD Burner: Samsung
That will all fit in a mid-tower easily. Full towers are usually used for many hard drives, but if you won't be moving the case around much it doesn't really matter.
Alright cool. I'm gunna get the Antec 900 mid then since it's about $60 cheaper.
That case should be fine- you may have probs and depends on the hdd cage. some turn into the case some to the side panel- if turned to the side panel you might have more probs- I think them 570's are 10.5" long.
If the gage is turned in you can normally just put your hdd out of the way. You might not think so but the larger the case is the more you will like it you have more room inside to work with.
Personally If I had to buy another case I would get one of these lain li's- I built near same system for my bud and used this case. I put the psu in the top and the fan in the bottom as a intake fan and filtered it etc. Its huge and sweet to work in. I only wish it had a side flow fan on the panel- But Id mod the side panel if my case- you can buy them from say frozencpu.com but is near 100 bucks just for the panel..
The LIAN LI PC-A70F Black Aluminum ATX Full Tower Computer Case..>
Newegg.com - LIAN LI PC-A70F Black Aluminum ATX Full Tower Computer Case
You can almost stand inside this sweet case- and is future proof and will take the larger mobos and smaller server mobos too- E-ATX / ATX / M-ATX. Also the io plate add on card hold down is awesome on this case and very easy to use- the top 2 5.25 drive hold down is sweet to but still need to add a screw to back side or opt drives might vibrate etc. it only has the quick release on 1 side and not the other- I did not understand that but is a sweet case all the same..>
My Antec p160w case- I think I can barely fit a 10.5" vid card and because of the side turned hdd cage.. Remember if in the future you might want a ati vid card some of them are 11 and 12" maybe longer and smaller cases would give ya a fit and you might have to buy another at that time. You can nip it in the bud and future proof your self by buying a larger case from the start..>
If the gage is turned in you can normally just put your hdd out of the way. You might not think so but the larger the case is the more you will like it you have more room inside to work with.
Personally If I had to buy another case I would get one of these lain li's- I built near same system for my bud and used this case. I put the psu in the top and the fan in the bottom as a intake fan and filtered it etc. Its huge and sweet to work in. I only wish it had a side flow fan on the panel- But Id mod the side panel if my case- you can buy them from say frozencpu.com but is near 100 bucks just for the panel..
The LIAN LI PC-A70F Black Aluminum ATX Full Tower Computer Case..>
Newegg.com - LIAN LI PC-A70F Black Aluminum ATX Full Tower Computer Case
You can almost stand inside this sweet case- and is future proof and will take the larger mobos and smaller server mobos too- E-ATX / ATX / M-ATX. Also the io plate add on card hold down is awesome on this case and very easy to use- the top 2 5.25 drive hold down is sweet to but still need to add a screw to back side or opt drives might vibrate etc. it only has the quick release on 1 side and not the other- I did not understand that but is a sweet case all the same..>
My Antec p160w case- I think I can barely fit a 10.5" vid card and because of the side turned hdd cage.. Remember if in the future you might want a ati vid card some of them are 11 and 12" maybe longer and smaller cases would give ya a fit and you might have to buy another at that time. You can nip it in the bud and future proof your self by buying a larger case from the start..>
Thanks for the advice.
Just ordered it! Changed a couple things up. So stoked, can't wait to get it! I will update when I get everything and get it up and running
Just ordered it! Changed a couple things up. So stoked, can't wait to get it! I will update when I get everything and get it up and running
Cool- good luck enjoy your new rig and some great gaming..
�� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN Thanks for the advice.
Just ordered it! Changed a couple things up. So stoked, can't wait to get it! I will update when I get everything and get it up and running
Just ordered it! Changed a couple things up. So stoked, can't wait to get it! I will update when I get everything and get it up and running
Everything came except for the motherboard, CPU cooler, and SSD. Says it will be here the 25th. Going to be a long wait, especially with everything else just sitting here!!
Till the 25th? outrageous, find yourself a Gameboy.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by vierasniper Till the 25th? outrageous, find yourself a Gameboy.
Why not post your specs of what you bought exactly. Then maybe some photos and comments maybe some bench marks after you build it etc?
So we know what you are getting and be happy for ya and or jealous- ha ha.
So we know what you are getting and be happy for ya and or jealous- ha ha.
Yes definitely. I will update the specs tomorrow when I get off of work (don't feel like typing everything out right now on my phone). I'll be taking photos throughout the build
Here's a little teaser, as you can probably see what the case is. Wound up getting a full instead of a mid.
Here's a little teaser, as you can probably see what the case is. Wound up getting a full instead of a mid.
The case is very nice..
The rest of my stuff came.. Time to build
Okay, it is built and running! I'm actually on it now. I just have a few questions... My resolution is 1360x768 and it is a little off, one side is a bit cutoff on my monitor (26" Sony Bravia LCD HDTV). Any way to fix this? I am using a regular VGA monitor cable, but will be switching to HDMI in a few days. Also it is a 'scratchy' picture. Seems like a lot of fuzz. Anyone know what would be causing this? It was fine when I was able to make the resolution different, don't remember what it was. It was before it labeled my monitor as my Sony TV. Then after something installed, it became all fuzzy.
Also, my second HDD doesn't seem to show up.. It showed up when I loaded the OS but now I can't seem to see it.
Thanks guys! I am going to update my specs soon, and post some pictures of my build!
EDIT:
Also, my second HDD doesn't seem to show up.. It showed up when I loaded the OS but now I can't seem to see it.
Thanks guys! I am going to update my specs soon, and post some pictures of my build!
EDIT:
The second HDD might show up after a reboot or two or you might be able to get it going through Disk Management where you can do a rescan of all drives from one of the menus.
Hmm, normal monitor cable. Is that connected to a dvi adapter/connector? Did you double check your nv cp and set it for your monitors native res- I guess 1920x1080?
I am not sure what to say. Maybe the hdmi cable will help it. Not sure about your hdd not showing up either. I guess you installed your security. Is it possible your security is hiding it? Does it work?
I noticed the other day my marvel controller is not showing up in device manager under storage controllers but it works, or I would not be on my system now. My sataIII is on my sata7 sataIII port and when I reboot the black load screen shows that marvel is installed and says at 6 gig speeds. I am not sure if my security is hiding it or my reg has messed up. I have read it is not un common for w7's reg to get funky. W7 can be a pain in the butt it really can be. I have not sweat on it because it is working. I do not understand it. but it is working. XP was a far less glitchy os, but I always used tuneup utilities 04 with xp too. I am afraid to use anything like that with w7 especially anything other than tuneup utilities- something I have never used before and maybe hose my os. Seems it is hosed any way. I am not sure.
I have been reading lots of info, been thinking about over clocking my rig some. Now thinking about maybe my reg has got messed up I am not sure now. I remember seeing marvel in device man when built system and before security. I am not sure what to think now. I am afraid to bother with it and maybe mess it up more and maybe have to reinstall the os.
I swear man w7 can be suck sometimes.. Maybe the few times stupid fo3 froze my system and I hit the restart button- then start as normal messed it up. My power went off for like 4 hours the other day, but I had already noticed my marvel was not showing up in device man under storage controllers? I use spy sweeper to turn off marvel tray from loading at boot, but if I turn it back on and reboot it is still not showing in device man [tested- not showing so I turned it back off in spy sweeper]. Again it all seems to be working fine tho..
I would like to think avast or spy sweeper or maybe defender is hiding it, but that does not sound right really. Maybe it got messed up a few months ago when I put sp1 on here? I never thought to have to check that stuff and have deleted the back up now after holding it like 2 months. What 92 megs free space now? I am not sure what I will do about it.. My system seems to be running well.
I do not have the yellow triangle showing prob in device man- my marvel is just not showing?? Ha ha its stupid.
Not trying to high jack your thread- just saying is all. If I go to trying to fix it I will start my own thread..
I am not sure what to say. Maybe the hdmi cable will help it. Not sure about your hdd not showing up either. I guess you installed your security. Is it possible your security is hiding it? Does it work?
I noticed the other day my marvel controller is not showing up in device manager under storage controllers but it works, or I would not be on my system now. My sataIII is on my sata7 sataIII port and when I reboot the black load screen shows that marvel is installed and says at 6 gig speeds. I am not sure if my security is hiding it or my reg has messed up. I have read it is not un common for w7's reg to get funky. W7 can be a pain in the butt it really can be. I have not sweat on it because it is working. I do not understand it. but it is working. XP was a far less glitchy os, but I always used tuneup utilities 04 with xp too. I am afraid to use anything like that with w7 especially anything other than tuneup utilities- something I have never used before and maybe hose my os. Seems it is hosed any way. I am not sure.
I have been reading lots of info, been thinking about over clocking my rig some. Now thinking about maybe my reg has got messed up I am not sure now. I remember seeing marvel in device man when built system and before security. I am not sure what to think now. I am afraid to bother with it and maybe mess it up more and maybe have to reinstall the os.
I swear man w7 can be suck sometimes.. Maybe the few times stupid fo3 froze my system and I hit the restart button- then start as normal messed it up. My power went off for like 4 hours the other day, but I had already noticed my marvel was not showing up in device man under storage controllers? I use spy sweeper to turn off marvel tray from loading at boot, but if I turn it back on and reboot it is still not showing in device man [tested- not showing so I turned it back off in spy sweeper]. Again it all seems to be working fine tho..
I would like to think avast or spy sweeper or maybe defender is hiding it, but that does not sound right really. Maybe it got messed up a few months ago when I put sp1 on here? I never thought to have to check that stuff and have deleted the back up now after holding it like 2 months. What 92 megs free space now? I am not sure what I will do about it.. My system seems to be running well.
I do not have the yellow triangle showing prob in device man- my marvel is just not showing?? Ha ha its stupid.
Not trying to high jack your thread- just saying is all. If I go to trying to fix it I will start my own thread..
I started my own thread and linked back to this thread..>
Marvel not showing up in device man- storage controllers?
Marvel not showing up in device man- storage controllers?
Yes it's connected to a DVI adapter. It's weird though because before something installed then rebooted, the picture got fuzzy. It was fine at the beginning. The resolution I have it on now is the native one.
I will try that disk management thing when I get back home in a little while.
Also, no I did not install any of my security software yet.
I will try that disk management thing when I get back home in a little while.
Also, no I did not install any of my security software yet.
Hmm. I have read many times that some monitors etc can act funny until it is connected like it wants to be.
But you say it seemed right at one point and now is not- is odd. Ya I asked about security, it is not above security hiding such things to protect your system. May hide drive names and or locations etc. Scratch that tho..
I do not know what to think about w7 sometimes???
But you say it seemed right at one point and now is not- is odd. Ya I asked about security, it is not above security hiding such things to protect your system. May hide drive names and or locations etc. Scratch that tho..
I do not know what to think about w7 sometimes???
Hmm yeah I don't know. It's bothering me about the displAy though.. I don't even know what to try to fix it. Well hopefully hdmi cable fixes it
After turning my computer back on, the screen is no longer fuzzy. It is just slightly 'off' (meaning that it is ever so slightly cut off on one side).
And I tried the rescan for the HDD, but it still didn't find it. It's odd because when I was doing the OS it showed up. And in the device manager it recognizes both drives.
And I tried the rescan for the HDD, but it still didn't find it. It's odd because when I was doing the OS it showed up. And in the device manager it recognizes both drives.
Bart I guess it is possible w7 has some registry bug.
As for screen being a lil off. I do not notice it on my desk top but some games the gui can be as you say a lil off center. I think a lil more to the right than it should be. I notice the left side is a lil off- but is no adjustments for it using my lcd. Using my cry I could adjust such things. You may have to live with that and if as you say it is off center by just a lil..
As said I only notice that in a few games.. I never tried to see if I could adjust it in my vid card cp because it does not happen when on my desk top and I can not get to the cp when in game and full screen so. I might not sweat that..
As for your drive prob- if it is working and at proper speeds you might want to let that go to. I am thinking and posted same in my thread I started. Marvel is working it is just not showing where it should be in storage controllers. I do know it was there before- why not now I can not answer. I refuse to pull out hair over it or go trying to do a lot of junk and reinstalling drivers etc and maybe make it worst.
It is some other info I will look for laters. I think it is movie time or stalker soc or mafia2 time now. just had some bbq bacon chicken onion pizza- I am good to go..
Either way I hope you get it right and happy with it. Your system and or specs are sweet. I am very happy for ya. You post in gaming area- so I hope you have lots of joy gaming and our other forum member gamers too. W7 has some great folks. I am new here but this is maybe my favorite site or I would not hang out here like I do. I can talk a lot. I am pure gamer and budget rig enthusiast but because I am poor mostly. Some of us do not always agree on everything- but folks here are great. I am happy to be a 7 forums member..
See ya..
As for screen being a lil off. I do not notice it on my desk top but some games the gui can be as you say a lil off center. I think a lil more to the right than it should be. I notice the left side is a lil off- but is no adjustments for it using my lcd. Using my cry I could adjust such things. You may have to live with that and if as you say it is off center by just a lil..
As said I only notice that in a few games.. I never tried to see if I could adjust it in my vid card cp because it does not happen when on my desk top and I can not get to the cp when in game and full screen so. I might not sweat that..
As for your drive prob- if it is working and at proper speeds you might want to let that go to. I am thinking and posted same in my thread I started. Marvel is working it is just not showing where it should be in storage controllers. I do know it was there before- why not now I can not answer. I refuse to pull out hair over it or go trying to do a lot of junk and reinstalling drivers etc and maybe make it worst.
It is some other info I will look for laters. I think it is movie time or stalker soc or mafia2 time now. just had some bbq bacon chicken onion pizza- I am good to go..
Either way I hope you get it right and happy with it. Your system and or specs are sweet. I am very happy for ya. You post in gaming area- so I hope you have lots of joy gaming and our other forum member gamers too. W7 has some great folks. I am new here but this is maybe my favorite site or I would not hang out here like I do. I can talk a lot. I am pure gamer and budget rig enthusiast but because I am poor mostly. Some of us do not always agree on everything- but folks here are great. I am happy to be a 7 forums member..
See ya..
Yeah, it just stinks though because I want to put my music and stuff on this computer, but can't because I can't seem to be able to format the drive.
After looking through the disk manager I see that it says the drive is there. Says it is unallocated. I don't know how to format it since it is not at the top. Screenshot for reference:
After looking through the disk manager I see that it says the drive is there. Says it is unallocated. I don't know how to format it since it is not at the top. Screenshot for reference:
Hmm I see what you are saying now. As fact I have seen same thing here talked about. Sorry I can not remember how it was fixed.
It might be you have to format it to ntfs and or the whole drive reformat it and then it shows up as it should- I am not sure about multi partitions I never multi partition my drives. If I remember right if you reformat it it fixes it- and seems it is just a storage drive any way.
I am almost certain I have seen same prob here or on other sites using w7. I think format solves it..
It might be you have to format it to ntfs and or the whole drive reformat it and then it shows up as it should- I am not sure about multi partitions I never multi partition my drives. If I remember right if you reformat it it fixes it- and seems it is just a storage drive any way.
I am almost certain I have seen same prob here or on other sites using w7. I think format solves it..
�� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN Yeah, it just stinks though because I want to put my music and stuff on this computer, but can't because I can't seem to be able to format the drive.
After looking through the disk manager I see that it says the drive is there. Says it is unallocated. I don't know how to format it since it is not at the top. Screenshot for reference:
After looking through the disk manager I see that it says the drive is there. Says it is unallocated. I don't know how to format it since it is not at the top. Screenshot for reference:
PS: Nice build.
Going back to gaming- and seems folks here are good folks and honest. I wish it was a game many of us had and liked and we could all play together. Many games today are say suck gfwl junk and up to only 10 players. Maybe something like a ut04 would be good and can have 16 or more players. I love mp games I just hate cheaters etc.
I did play some of the older cod games they was ok- but ut04 was my game. I liked bioshock2 mp also, few maps tho and gfwl sucks and only 10 players. 10 players is not so bad tho, gfwl id rather fall on my head for fun. Then the suck crap with dlc's and the haves and have nots sucks. I never liked quake or hl2 mp stuff. UT04 you could play 10 new maps a day for 4 years and not play them all and seemed more fluid and a natural feel player movement etc and weapons balance etc. Other games seem more arcade or bouncy or jerky what ever.
UT04 was a sweet game and so many game modes and maps and skins what ever. Love that game- cheaters ran me off from it tho. Even 3 more folks for some borderlands co op would be great- better if it had up to 10 players tho- and some normal mp modes like tdm or dm would have really been great.
I did play some of the older cod games they was ok- but ut04 was my game. I liked bioshock2 mp also, few maps tho and gfwl sucks and only 10 players. 10 players is not so bad tho, gfwl id rather fall on my head for fun. Then the suck crap with dlc's and the haves and have nots sucks. I never liked quake or hl2 mp stuff. UT04 you could play 10 new maps a day for 4 years and not play them all and seemed more fluid and a natural feel player movement etc and weapons balance etc. Other games seem more arcade or bouncy or jerky what ever.
UT04 was a sweet game and so many game modes and maps and skins what ever. Love that game- cheaters ran me off from it tho. Even 3 more folks for some borderlands co op would be great- better if it had up to 10 players tho- and some normal mp modes like tdm or dm would have really been great.
Thinking now. I think I had same prob with my e: drive in w7 until I formatted it. Just I had previous read about it and knew what to do.. That is why I read so much stuff in these forums and say at msi, just to learn and see what probs others have and how they are fixed and maybe I can help others down the road or if I have probs pop up I might can help my self and is not totally new to me.
Or what pit just said might fix ya up. I formatted mine and solved it If I remember right.. I think it will auto give it a letter if you format it. As a fact I think I did quick format took less than a minute it was good to go.
Or what pit just said might fix ya up. I formatted mine and solved it If I remember right.. I think it will auto give it a letter if you format it. As a fact I think I did quick format took less than a minute it was good to go.
Maybe what I see as multi partition is w7 made that space because I think your c is ssd drive and to free up the space for it. A quick format should fix ya up tho.
Ha ha you would think this os said the best thing since butter would auto do that stuff or prompt ya. I think xp would fix it right away- I know macs fix it right away- plug a new drive into a mac it works right away..
Ha ha you would think this os said the best thing since butter would auto do that stuff or prompt ya. I think xp would fix it right away- I know macs fix it right away- plug a new drive into a mac it works right away..
You've always needed to partition and format a new HDD, this is nothing new.
Do I have to convert it to a Dynamic Disk first? There is no option to format.
Avoid dynamic disks!
You cannot make more than 4 primary partitions.
To avoid dynamic disks, you may need to make an extended partition and then make a logical partition inside that extended partition.
Best thing you can do is post a picture of your Disk Management screen.
You cannot make more than 4 primary partitions.
To avoid dynamic disks, you may need to make an extended partition and then make a logical partition inside that extended partition.
Best thing you can do is post a picture of your Disk Management screen.
Here is two screenshots of my disk management. Also, I do not want multiple partitions on my drive. I am just using it for storage.
Confession: I have not been following this thread closely, so I'm not sure of your intentions.
Do you want RAID?
I'm not sure how you ended up with the System Reserved partition and C on different physical drives. Normally, they are on the same drive.
Since they are on separate drives, that may be why you cannot format the 931 GB partition? I assume you have right clicked it and tried to create a simple volume.
Dynamic drives are generally a major complication to be avoided in most situations. They are not easy to undo.
I'd prefer to see something like this:
Disk 0 contains System Reserved partition and C partition
Disk 1 contains only 1 partition--the entire 1 TB drive.
But it's best that you explain what you want and why (if you know) the System Reserved and C are on different drives.
Do you want RAID?
I'm not sure how you ended up with the System Reserved partition and C on different physical drives. Normally, they are on the same drive.
Since they are on separate drives, that may be why you cannot format the 931 GB partition? I assume you have right clicked it and tried to create a simple volume.
Dynamic drives are generally a major complication to be avoided in most situations. They are not easy to undo.
I'd prefer to see something like this:
Disk 0 contains System Reserved partition and C partition
Disk 1 contains only 1 partition--the entire 1 TB drive.
But it's best that you explain what you want and why (if you know) the System Reserved and C are on different drives.
I'm not even sure what RAID is. I can go research it I guess. I want my 1TB drive for my music and videos and other stuff. My SSD is just for my OS, games, and programs.
No I have no tried creating a new simple volume. Should I try that then? I've never ran two internal hard drives before so some of this stuff is relatively new to me.
I have no idea how the System Reserved and C got onto different drives.
I could always just wipe out my SSD and reformat the OS onto it, since I don't really mind as I won't be losing anything because I barely even have anything as of now.
No I have no tried creating a new simple volume. Should I try that then? I've never ran two internal hard drives before so some of this stuff is relatively new to me.
I have no idea how the System Reserved and C got onto different drives.
I could always just wipe out my SSD and reformat the OS onto it, since I don't really mind as I won't be losing anything because I barely even have anything as of now.
Did you try to right click on the unallocated space [not the reserve]. You should get a format option click it and just click quick format
I think windows will have that 100mbs for system stuff but is not considered as multi partitions- Sorry it was first thing that pooped into my mind before.
Its just your ssd is small and or maybe is just normal for ssd and w7 and being you have a second drive it put the reserve on the larger drive. which is good for you and free up space on the ssd.
Try and right click that unallocated space see what happens- you should be able to format it- click quick format- should take 2 minutes or so and its done and will give it letter e: or should and good to go.
Not all of my drives show full space as usable. it is normal for windows to reserve some for its use. If right click and it lets ya format- after done reboot your system. It for sure should be showing up and as e: then and or being if you only have those 2 drives on the system. Main drive with os is c storage will be e.
I think windows will have that 100mbs for system stuff but is not considered as multi partitions- Sorry it was first thing that pooped into my mind before.
Its just your ssd is small and or maybe is just normal for ssd and w7 and being you have a second drive it put the reserve on the larger drive. which is good for you and free up space on the ssd.
Try and right click that unallocated space see what happens- you should be able to format it- click quick format- should take 2 minutes or so and its done and will give it letter e: or should and good to go.
Not all of my drives show full space as usable. it is normal for windows to reserve some for its use. If right click and it lets ya format- after done reboot your system. It for sure should be showing up and as e: then and or being if you only have those 2 drives on the system. Main drive with os is c storage will be e.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN I'm not even sure what RAID is. I can go research it I guess. I want my 1TB drive for my music and videos and other stuff. My SSD is just for my OS, games, and programs.
No I have no tried creating a new simple volume. Should I try that then? I've never ran two internal hard drives before so some of this stuff is relatively new to me.
I have no idea how the System Reserved and C got onto different drives.
I could always just wipe out my SSD and reformat the OS onto it, since I don't really mind as I won't be losing anything because I barely even have anything as of now.
No I have no tried creating a new simple volume. Should I try that then? I've never ran two internal hard drives before so some of this stuff is relatively new to me.
I have no idea how the System Reserved and C got onto different drives.
I could always just wipe out my SSD and reformat the OS onto it, since I don't really mind as I won't be losing anything because I barely even have anything as of now.
Disconnect the 1 TB drive before you begin.
I'd do things in this order:
1: set your PC BIOS to boot from the DVD drive first.
2: insert your Windows installation disc in the DVD drive.
3: shut down
4: disconnect the 1 TB drive completely
5: restart. The PC should boot from the installation disc
6: Continue with Windows install as you did before.
7: When Windows is back up and running on the single drive, reconnect the 1 TB and reformat it, wiping out the 2 partitions that are now on it.
You don't need RAID. Forget about it.
See here. Only w7 put the reserve on my c and was the only hdd on my system at the time.
I just right click on the e drive- in your case right click the unallocated space.. then format then quick format..>
Man you do not have to reinstall your os follow these simple instructions you will be good to go- 2 or 3 of us have told ya how to do it- this other guy is going to cost you a lot of time and you will be right back where you are now.
Your ssd or c drive is what 75 gigs or so. It makes common sense and being you have both drives installed for w7 to put the reserve on the larger second drive. And or might be a ssd thingy. Try these simple instructions before you go reinstalling the os or you will hate your self.
I had to go through a lot of head akes trying to install my sataIII and using my marvel port and is why I only had the 1 drive installed when I installed my os. Or w7 might have put the reserve on my second drive also. Not sure tho it is not a ssd drive and my c drive is larger than yours. I just did not care to add all this extra info and maybe confuse ya more than you already are.
I just right click on the e drive- in your case right click the unallocated space.. then format then quick format..>
Man you do not have to reinstall your os follow these simple instructions you will be good to go- 2 or 3 of us have told ya how to do it- this other guy is going to cost you a lot of time and you will be right back where you are now.
Your ssd or c drive is what 75 gigs or so. It makes common sense and being you have both drives installed for w7 to put the reserve on the larger second drive. And or might be a ssd thingy. Try these simple instructions before you go reinstalling the os or you will hate your self.
I had to go through a lot of head akes trying to install my sataIII and using my marvel port and is why I only had the 1 drive installed when I installed my os. Or w7 might have put the reserve on my second drive also. Not sure tho it is not a ssd drive and my c drive is larger than yours. I just did not care to add all this extra info and maybe confuse ya more than you already are.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by ezeht Did you try to right click on the unallocated space [not the reserve]. You should get a format option click it and just click quick format
I think windows will have that 100mbs for system stuff but is not considered as multi partitions- Sorry it was first thing that pooped into my mind before.
Its just your ssd is small and or maybe is just normal for ssd and w7 and being you have a second drive it put the reserve on the larger drive. which is good for you and free up space on the ssd.
Try and right click that unallocated space see what happens- you should be able to format it- click quick format- should take 2 minutes or so and its done and will give it letter e: or should and good to go.
None of my drives show full space as usable. it is normal for windows to reserve some for its use. If right click and it lets ya format- after done reboot your system. It for sure should be showing up and as e: then and or being if you only have those 2 drives on the system. Main drive with os is c storage will be e.
I think windows will have that 100mbs for system stuff but is not considered as multi partitions- Sorry it was first thing that pooped into my mind before.
Its just your ssd is small and or maybe is just normal for ssd and w7 and being you have a second drive it put the reserve on the larger drive. which is good for you and free up space on the ssd.
Try and right click that unallocated space see what happens- you should be able to format it- click quick format- should take 2 minutes or so and its done and will give it letter e: or should and good to go.
None of my drives show full space as usable. it is normal for windows to reserve some for its use. If right click and it lets ya format- after done reboot your system. It for sure should be showing up and as e: then and or being if you only have those 2 drives on the system. Main drive with os is c storage will be e.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by ignatzatsonic �� Quote: Originally Posted by BarTmaN I'm not even sure what RAID is. I can go research it I guess. I want my 1TB drive for my music and videos and other stuff. My SSD is just for my OS, games, and programs.
No I have no tried creating a new simple volume. Should I try that then? I've never ran two internal hard drives before so some of this stuff is relatively new to me.
I have no idea how the System Reserved and C got onto different drives.
I could always just wipe out my SSD and reformat the OS onto it, since I don't really mind as I won't be losing anything because I barely even have anything as of now.
No I have no tried creating a new simple volume. Should I try that then? I've never ran two internal hard drives before so some of this stuff is relatively new to me.
I have no idea how the System Reserved and C got onto different drives.
I could always just wipe out my SSD and reformat the OS onto it, since I don't really mind as I won't be losing anything because I barely even have anything as of now.
Disconnect the 1 TB drive before you begin.
I'd do things in this order:
1: set your PC BIOS to boot from the DVD drive first.
2: insert your Windows installation disc in the DVD drive.
3: shut down
4: disconnect the 1 TB drive completely
5: restart. The PC should boot from the installation disc
6: Continue with Windows install as you did before.
7: When Windows is back up and running on the single drive, reconnect the 1 TB and reformat it, wiping out the 2 partitions that are now on it.
You don't need RAID. Forget about it.
It only takes like 20 mins to do the OS and I have nothing important on the computer yet so it's not really a big deal.
Thanks
If you follow that last guys instructions and just have your ssd installed it will eat up that 100mbs and will be on your small ssd drive. You are just new to this. you have to format that 1t drive either way- you can do it right now if you follow the instructions.
There is no option to format the unallocated space, so I don't know what to do.
That system reserved partition contains some of your boot files.
I don't think you can boot without it. Disconnect your 1 TB drive and see if you can boot just from the C drive alone. Probably not.
I'd want to correct that, even if I could format the 1 TB drive. I've never seen an installation that had C and the system reserved on separate physical drives. I don't know how it happened in your case.
I don't think you can boot without it. Disconnect your 1 TB drive and see if you can boot just from the C drive alone. Probably not.
I'd want to correct that, even if I could format the 1 TB drive. I've never seen an installation that had C and the system reserved on separate physical drives. I don't know how it happened in your case.
Are you sure you did not right click the reserve? Try it again- right click on the unallocated space. If it does not work I am sorry and we are confusing each other or something. If it does not work I do not know what to say.
And to add to last guys instructions it is best you turn on ahci support in your bios before you reinstall the os. I was going to ask you about that but after you got that drive formatted and working right. If you did not turn on ahci support it is no real matter but the drives will not run at full speeds or have all sata support but you could have fixed that in w7 with a reg tweak and reboot to bios and then turn on ahci support. As a fact it is possible that is the prob. I do not see why tho. You should be able to format that drive.
Have you ever tried to reboot the system- maybe try that first reboot and them back to disc man where you are now and then try and right click the drive and see if you can format it. Something is not right? You should reboot after each new hardware install or even after each new program install etc or can cause probs. Other than that- Sorry I do not know what else to say.
And to add to last guys instructions it is best you turn on ahci support in your bios before you reinstall the os. I was going to ask you about that but after you got that drive formatted and working right. If you did not turn on ahci support it is no real matter but the drives will not run at full speeds or have all sata support but you could have fixed that in w7 with a reg tweak and reboot to bios and then turn on ahci support. As a fact it is possible that is the prob. I do not see why tho. You should be able to format that drive.
Have you ever tried to reboot the system- maybe try that first reboot and them back to disc man where you are now and then try and right click the drive and see if you can format it. Something is not right? You should reboot after each new hardware install or even after each new program install etc or can cause probs. Other than that- Sorry I do not know what else to say.
I bet money is because it is a ssd and is small and he had both drives connected. SSD drives are not really like normal drives and they are built for speed- it makes common sense to put the reserve on his other drive.
I do not know. I tried.. No matter what he will have to format that 1t drive and it does have the system files on it the reserve. un connect it now it ssd or os may not work and he may very well have to reformat and install w7 again. If only the ssd installed it will for sure eat up 100mbs of his small drive.
Something is not right- he needs to reboot his system or something and then try and format that 1t drive. it should be simple.
I guess he has installed all drivers and has updated windows before he tried messing with his extra drive? To think now I guess he did not set up the system for ahci support- he does not have to re install the os for that he can do that now. The ssd is working and ahci is not needed for the 1t drive or should be no probs other than not running at full speeds and not full sata support. Being a new drive might be another story. I can be wrong maybe a new just out drive may need the ahci support but w7 put the reserve on it.
Did the ssd come with software? Maybe the disc utility for his 1t drive can fix it and format it if wd you can get it from its home site. I read them ssd can be funny and some have its own software or its home site may have it. You do not defrag ssd drives as best I know also. They are not really like normal drives they are a different animal and you treat them different than normal drives.
Should be simple- not rebooting the system can cause crazy probs and like this..
I hope you get it right- And please post how you fix it. I plan to get a ssd drive maybe I can learn something here.
Maybe before you go and mess up more you should post at the ssd home site forum or put in a support ticket. Or you might waste time and reinstall the os and be right back where you are now- and will fell bad about it and it still not working right. I would have did that first and if after a lil time and no help and still not working.
I wish ya the best- see ya..
I do not know. I tried.. No matter what he will have to format that 1t drive and it does have the system files on it the reserve. un connect it now it ssd or os may not work and he may very well have to reformat and install w7 again. If only the ssd installed it will for sure eat up 100mbs of his small drive.
Something is not right- he needs to reboot his system or something and then try and format that 1t drive. it should be simple.
I guess he has installed all drivers and has updated windows before he tried messing with his extra drive? To think now I guess he did not set up the system for ahci support- he does not have to re install the os for that he can do that now. The ssd is working and ahci is not needed for the 1t drive or should be no probs other than not running at full speeds and not full sata support. Being a new drive might be another story. I can be wrong maybe a new just out drive may need the ahci support but w7 put the reserve on it.
Did the ssd come with software? Maybe the disc utility for his 1t drive can fix it and format it if wd you can get it from its home site. I read them ssd can be funny and some have its own software or its home site may have it. You do not defrag ssd drives as best I know also. They are not really like normal drives they are a different animal and you treat them different than normal drives.
Should be simple- not rebooting the system can cause crazy probs and like this..
I hope you get it right- And please post how you fix it. I plan to get a ssd drive maybe I can learn something here.
Maybe before you go and mess up more you should post at the ssd home site forum or put in a support ticket. Or you might waste time and reinstall the os and be right back where you are now- and will fell bad about it and it still not working right. I would have did that first and if after a lil time and no help and still not working.
I wish ya the best- see ya..
When I right click the system reserve there is a format option, but not when I right click the unallocated space. I've tried rebooting and nothing different.
I guess I will just resintall the OS without my 1TB drive connected. Then reconnect it and try to format it.
And the extra 100MB for system reserve won't bother me if it is on my SSD. You guys said it is supposed to be on the C drive, and I want everything to be correct and how it is supposed to be.
I guess I will just resintall the OS without my 1TB drive connected. Then reconnect it and try to format it.
And the extra 100MB for system reserve won't bother me if it is on my SSD. You guys said it is supposed to be on the C drive, and I want everything to be correct and how it is supposed to be.
ok try 1 other thing. look to the far left side where you see the drive number count disc1 left of the reserved space and try and right click there and see if it let you see format- not the reserve or the unallocated spaces.
it is showing as disc0 in the box above it. Maybe we have been telling ya to right click wrong place- something is not right? I can right click on mine near any place it gives me the option.
it is showing as disc0 in the box above it. Maybe we have been telling ya to right click wrong place- something is not right? I can right click on mine near any place it gives me the option.
Well than that is it man it will hold the reserve part or should. I know you should be able to right click it some place and get the option to format it- click format then quick format should be 2 minutes or so and then reboot it should all be good.
When the format pops up double check tho make sure it ask you and the volume you are trying to format is the 9**** gigs and not 100mbs it should ask do you want to reformat quick for mat volume size 99999 gigs what ever it is- do not format just the 100mbs or it will wipe the system files. it will prompt ask etc. or should.
Not sure I do not do this every day. I guess you have made a restore point- if not I am sure windows has made one sometime. Even if it formats the whole drive and reboot windows will more than likely fix its self or say it can not start right and say it will search for answer and fix its self and should work- I guess so any way.
When the format pops up double check tho make sure it ask you and the volume you are trying to format is the 9**** gigs and not 100mbs it should ask do you want to reformat quick for mat volume size 99999 gigs what ever it is- do not format just the 100mbs or it will wipe the system files. it will prompt ask etc. or should.
Not sure I do not do this every day. I guess you have made a restore point- if not I am sure windows has made one sometime. Even if it formats the whole drive and reboot windows will more than likely fix its self or say it can not start right and say it will search for answer and fix its self and should work- I guess so any way.
Well I'm not home at my computer right now, so I will try when I do get home then.
Ya this should be simple man- again we can be telling ya to right click the wrong place. I would click all over it until I got the option. As long as you do not try and format the ssd or c:
I can click on my e any place and have the option- might be different because yours show unallocated space or because it has the reserve on it something- this should not be so hard tho. we are missing something.
When format pops up and then click quick format it will be a window [ or volume size might show as soon as you click format- not sure] and show the volume size etc you are trying to format or it thinks you are trying to format any way.
Just make sure it is not trying to let you only format just the 100mbs reserve. It should be showing as the rest of it 9999 gigs what ever it is. quick format takes lil time- my 320 gig drive was like 45 seconds maybe. It was fast I know that.
I will check back a lil laters- Maybe you can say how long before you will be home and ready to do it- I can check back about that time.
Ha ha I really want to see you happy and it going right- Ha ha I am ready to kick your drives butt for ya. Ha ha got me all worked up. This should be simple stuff. I know ssd are different tho. Never defrag that sucker either- best I know you are not supposed to any way and can ruin them or something like that.. I do not have one so I have not really read much about them- or yet any way.
Just do not go reinstalling your os until very last thing- take another day what ever it takes- You will not die if it takes a lil longer to add your music or what ever. It is something simple we are just missing it is all. I will bet you will thank me laters..
I can click on my e any place and have the option- might be different because yours show unallocated space or because it has the reserve on it something- this should not be so hard tho. we are missing something.
When format pops up and then click quick format it will be a window [ or volume size might show as soon as you click format- not sure] and show the volume size etc you are trying to format or it thinks you are trying to format any way.
Just make sure it is not trying to let you only format just the 100mbs reserve. It should be showing as the rest of it 9999 gigs what ever it is. quick format takes lil time- my 320 gig drive was like 45 seconds maybe. It was fast I know that.
I will check back a lil laters- Maybe you can say how long before you will be home and ready to do it- I can check back about that time.
Ha ha I really want to see you happy and it going right- Ha ha I am ready to kick your drives butt for ya. Ha ha got me all worked up. This should be simple stuff. I know ssd are different tho. Never defrag that sucker either- best I know you are not supposed to any way and can ruin them or something like that.. I do not have one so I have not really read much about them- or yet any way.
Just do not go reinstalling your os until very last thing- take another day what ever it takes- You will not die if it takes a lil longer to add your music or what ever. It is something simple we are just missing it is all. I will bet you will thank me laters..
I will be home anywhere between 9:30-10 EST
Yes I will try, and I will even post screenshots of everywhere I am right clicking!
I appreciate your help too
Yes I will try, and I will even post screenshots of everywhere I am right clicking!
I appreciate your help too
No probs man- Id guess you would help me to so.
I was not trying to give that other fella a hard time- but reinstall the os is the quick answer and he seems to not know for sure just like us- and might be a real waste of time and be right back where you are and have to install everything again.
If we can not get this working I have another idea- just waiting to see if we can get it and do not care to worry ya or confuse you more.. But ssd are weird man and not always easy. It is millions of threads and posts about them..
We will see.
I was not trying to give that other fella a hard time- but reinstall the os is the quick answer and he seems to not know for sure just like us- and might be a real waste of time and be right back where you are and have to install everything again.
If we can not get this working I have another idea- just waiting to see if we can get it and do not care to worry ya or confuse you more.. But ssd are weird man and not always easy. It is millions of threads and posts about them..
We will see.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by ignatzatsonic thiI nk your last sentence is your best move.
Disconnect the 1 TB drive before you begin.
I'd do things in this order:
1: set your PC BIOS to boot from the DVD drive first.
2: insert your Windows installation disc in the DVD drive.
3: shut down
4: disconnect the 1 TB drive completely
5: restart. The PC should boot from the installation disc
6: Continue with Windows install as you did before.
7: When Windows is back up and running on the single drive, reconnect the 1 TB and reformat it, wiping out the 2 partitions that are now on it.
Disconnect the 1 TB drive before you begin.
I'd do things in this order:
1: set your PC BIOS to boot from the DVD drive first.
2: insert your Windows installation disc in the DVD drive.
3: shut down
4: disconnect the 1 TB drive completely
5: restart. The PC should boot from the installation disc
6: Continue with Windows install as you did before.
7: When Windows is back up and running on the single drive, reconnect the 1 TB and reformat it, wiping out the 2 partitions that are now on it.
You really should have the system partition with the OS.
Either as a partiton, or in the OS partition itself.
You have 2 options:
First:
Follow ignatzatsonic's suggestion, and disconnect the 1TB, and reinstall.
This will set the SSD as it should be, with a 100MB system partion, and a secondary partition for Windows with the remainder of the space.
((This method would be my suggestion as well, as it will make sure everything is setup and aligned properly.As well as far less probability of headaches in the future.))
Second:
Shutdown and Disconnet the 1TB drive.
Try to boot from the SSD, It will fail to boot. (or should)
Put in your Windows DVD, and run a system repair. It should fix the boot problem but your system/boot files will be with the OS itself.
Then format the 1TB drive.
If you choose to leave it as it is....
You can not format Unallocated Space. Youll need to right click the unallocated space, and create a Partition first. However many you want, Then format them.
Honestly, I wouldnt do this. Those system files really should be on the OS drive.
Either as a partiton, or in the OS partition itself.
You have 2 options:
First:
Follow ignatzatsonic's suggestion, and disconnect the 1TB, and reinstall.
This will set the SSD as it should be, with a 100MB system partion, and a secondary partition for Windows with the remainder of the space.
((This method would be my suggestion as well, as it will make sure everything is setup and aligned properly.As well as far less probability of headaches in the future.))
Second:
Shutdown and Disconnet the 1TB drive.
Try to boot from the SSD, It will fail to boot. (or should)
Put in your Windows DVD, and run a system repair. It should fix the boot problem but your system/boot files will be with the OS itself.
Then format the 1TB drive.
If you choose to leave it as it is....
You can not format Unallocated Space. Youll need to right click the unallocated space, and create a Partition first. However many you want, Then format them.
Honestly, I wouldnt do this. Those system files really should be on the OS drive.
Cool my bad- the other fella was right. Maybe you should turn on AHCI support in the bios before you reinstall the os tho. It would be best. If you have not already done so during first build?
Ha ha now I really feel stupid or sad. As said tho- I was not trying to give him a hard time. Sorry man.
It sucks w7 did that tho. I really though or sounds like it would be natural maybe and to free up space on the ssd- I know they are different. Reinstall windows is the last thing I care to do. I have read it is not good to clone or image to a ssd- fresh install is best. I know a format should not have been so hard tho..
I learned something. I will never make this build mistake in the future.. Thanks for that..
Me kicks me self for trying so hard. Hope I did not upset the other fella- I am very sorry if so. I will run away now feeling like a true idiot. Kicking self- head up own butt--> stupid stupid stupid..
Ha ha now I really feel stupid or sad. As said tho- I was not trying to give him a hard time. Sorry man.
It sucks w7 did that tho. I really though or sounds like it would be natural maybe and to free up space on the ssd- I know they are different. Reinstall windows is the last thing I care to do. I have read it is not good to clone or image to a ssd- fresh install is best. I know a format should not have been so hard tho..
I learned something. I will never make this build mistake in the future.. Thanks for that..
Me kicks me self for trying so hard. Hope I did not upset the other fella- I am very sorry if so. I will run away now feeling like a true idiot. Kicking self- head up own butt--> stupid stupid stupid..
Okay, I will reinstall windows on my SSD without my other 1TB drive connected.
And nah it's all good ezeht. What exactly is AHCI, as I am new to that term as well.
And nah it's all good ezeht. What exactly is AHCI, as I am new to that term as well.
Advanced Host Controller Interface
Advanced Host Controller Interface - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
It isn't a huge deal, but most people say to enable AHCI in the BIOS, before installing Windows.
Advanced Host Controller Interface - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
It isn't a huge deal, but most people say to enable AHCI in the BIOS, before installing Windows.
Ya I was more saying sorry to sonic. Just seemed to me he was guessing like we others was. He was right though. I did not want you to waste your time- It was I wasting your time- again sorry.
AHCI support is the proper mode for sata and or ssd drives. You will not die with out it but some drives will not work at all or let you install them with out it. Even if you feel you do not need all the features ahci will insure they run at their fastest speeds possible and you do not need to set them up in raid either.
Mobos default to ide/ata mode and so folks can just pop in any hdd and get them going fast. AHCI is right for sata drives- just you have to manually turn it on in the bios- it is not hard- just different mobos bios is set up different- it has been a few months since I did it and my manual was no help- I think it is 2 places in the bios you need to check- 1 is integrated peripherals cant remember the other- you change ide/ata raid mode to ahci raid mode- and some wording can be different too- then save and exit- id go back to bios and check that it changed right etc. Then put your windows disc in your opti drive save and exit again it will boot to install disc- good to go.
You can always turn on ahci support after os install it is a easy guide here in the forums- you still need to know how to turn it on in your bios tho- maybe your manual has good instruction to do so- or others here can help or your mobos home site them folks can tell ya fast- it is not hard- I guess you know how to get around in your bios- you built the system and have to set time and date and maybe other things too so.. You can maybe live with out ahci support too- but your drives will not run as fast with out it..
I am hard on my self- and trying over hard I guess- my life is sad miserable and lonely- no friends etc. Guess I wish I could feel useful maybe. My heart is in the right place tho- I am trying to help - I am sure others would help me. It is a fella in my thread trying to help me now been at it for hours and hours and a few others have pop in ideas- I am not pressed on it tho- just did not care to high jack your thread here is all. It has been a post in my thread and I found some info that may help me. I just have not got to it yet and my system runs fine- just my marvel is not showing up in storage controllers like it did before but it all works. And feeling sorry for my self helps none either- so..
I am the first to admit when I am wrong- I do not choke to say I am sorry either.
I wish you all here the best and hope you get your rig up and going and how you like it soon and have fun gaming..
Take care..
AHCI support is the proper mode for sata and or ssd drives. You will not die with out it but some drives will not work at all or let you install them with out it. Even if you feel you do not need all the features ahci will insure they run at their fastest speeds possible and you do not need to set them up in raid either.
Mobos default to ide/ata mode and so folks can just pop in any hdd and get them going fast. AHCI is right for sata drives- just you have to manually turn it on in the bios- it is not hard- just different mobos bios is set up different- it has been a few months since I did it and my manual was no help- I think it is 2 places in the bios you need to check- 1 is integrated peripherals cant remember the other- you change ide/ata raid mode to ahci raid mode- and some wording can be different too- then save and exit- id go back to bios and check that it changed right etc. Then put your windows disc in your opti drive save and exit again it will boot to install disc- good to go.
You can always turn on ahci support after os install it is a easy guide here in the forums- you still need to know how to turn it on in your bios tho- maybe your manual has good instruction to do so- or others here can help or your mobos home site them folks can tell ya fast- it is not hard- I guess you know how to get around in your bios- you built the system and have to set time and date and maybe other things too so.. You can maybe live with out ahci support too- but your drives will not run as fast with out it..
I am hard on my self- and trying over hard I guess- my life is sad miserable and lonely- no friends etc. Guess I wish I could feel useful maybe. My heart is in the right place tho- I am trying to help - I am sure others would help me. It is a fella in my thread trying to help me now been at it for hours and hours and a few others have pop in ideas- I am not pressed on it tho- just did not care to high jack your thread here is all. It has been a post in my thread and I found some info that may help me. I just have not got to it yet and my system runs fine- just my marvel is not showing up in storage controllers like it did before but it all works. And feeling sorry for my self helps none either- so..
I am the first to admit when I am wrong- I do not choke to say I am sorry either.
I wish you all here the best and hope you get your rig up and going and how you like it soon and have fun gaming..
Take care..
ezeht, you're missing a critical step on the UNALLOCATED SPACE. In order to format UNALLOCATED SPACE you need to create a partition TO ALLOCATE the space, THEN format. Right-click, create partition, format NTFS with default block size, DONE. The difference in your screenshot from his is that the space you right-clicked on contains a partition.
Now, you've sent this guy in a run-around for two pages on drive space allocation, either you're over-thinking this or you just don't know.
Now, you've sent this guy in a run-around for two pages on drive space allocation, either you're over-thinking this or you just don't know.
Everyone makes mistakes, and sometimes its not a mistake so much as just a different opinion.
But, the important thing to remember here is this (IMO) ..
Was anything learned or gained from the solution of the problem?
If so, then we all come out ahead as a community.
After all, isn't that why we all hang out here? To help each other with what we have experience with and/or debate other viewpoints and possiblities?
Sometimes you learn something new, other times you help others learn something new.
My 2c for what its worth.
But, the important thing to remember here is this (IMO) ..
Was anything learned or gained from the solution of the problem?
If so, then we all come out ahead as a community.
After all, isn't that why we all hang out here? To help each other with what we have experience with and/or debate other viewpoints and possiblities?
Sometimes you learn something new, other times you help others learn something new.
My 2c for what its worth.
1 I have humbled my self and gave up- other than maybe he should use ahci support
2 My photo was general trying to help
3 it is a partition 1 partition it is my e: drive my storage drive and already formatted and using it
4 I do not format drives everyday- I forget stuff or steps maybe.
5 I would run him around some more trying to help and if it saved him from a new os install.
6 I can be wrong about formatting in xp- been a few years now- You do not have to on macs.
7 He should be able to get it right now and is all that matters.
Have a great day..
2 My photo was general trying to help
3 it is a partition 1 partition it is my e: drive my storage drive and already formatted and using it
4 I do not format drives everyday- I forget stuff or steps maybe.
5 I would run him around some more trying to help and if it saved him from a new os install.
6 I can be wrong about formatting in xp- been a few years now- You do not have to on macs.
7 He should be able to get it right now and is all that matters.
Have a great day..
Yes wish
I did learn something and know not to make same mistakes when I go adding a ssd and make it my c: in the future. I hope to get 1 someday.
And yes argument or differences in opinion does not mean fighting or folks are upset or mad. I can try to hard maybe.
I know when I need help- I guess same for others- you need help right then and chomping at the bit. Some times it can be days or maybe never folks try and help. I try and jump in right away and help if I can or try to any way..
Out of all of this- I hope I did not upset sonic- I did not mean to if so.
And ya I like it here. Great folks here.
I did learn something and know not to make same mistakes when I go adding a ssd and make it my c: in the future. I hope to get 1 someday.
And yes argument or differences in opinion does not mean fighting or folks are upset or mad. I can try to hard maybe.
I know when I need help- I guess same for others- you need help right then and chomping at the bit. Some times it can be days or maybe never folks try and help. I try and jump in right away and help if I can or try to any way..
Out of all of this- I hope I did not upset sonic- I did not mean to if so.
And ya I like it here. Great folks here.
Okay, so I reformatted my SSD without my HDD connected. Everything went well. Now I just need to know how to delete the System Reserved Partition from my HDD then format it.
Here are screenshots:
Here are screenshots:
You should be able to just Right click the Reserved on the spinning drive, and choose "Delete Volume".
Then, Right Click it again and create partitions ( "New Simple Volume" ) and format them.
make them whatever size you want, as many as you need .. or just one single volume.
Then, Right Click it again and create partitions ( "New Simple Volume" ) and format them.
make them whatever size you want, as many as you need .. or just one single volume.
Ok thank you sir! Got everything up and running good! Have to start getting everything setup how I want it, then do some gaming!
I would like to thank everyone! You all rock, and helped me A LOT!
I would like to thank everyone! You all rock, and helped me A LOT!
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