Hello,
I am thinking of building myself a new tower for the first time ever. I am not sure if all the things I have chosen for my desktop build are everything I need for it to run, or if all the components I have chosen will work together (compatible) or not. Please check my specs/components:
Newegg.com - AMD Phenom II X4 840 3.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor HDX840WFGMBOX
Newegg.com - Antec EarthWatts Green EA-380D Green 380W Continuous power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Newegg.com - Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Newegg.com - ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
Newegg.com - Asus VW199T-P Black 19" 5ms LED BackLight LCD Monitor w/Speakers 10,000,000:1
Newegg.com - Crucial Ballistix sport 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664BA160A
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N440D3-1GI GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
Newegg.com - Seagate Barracuda ST3500413AS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Newegg.com - ZALMAN 9500A-LED 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
Thank You,
Slasher
I am thinking of building myself a new tower for the first time ever. I am not sure if all the things I have chosen for my desktop build are everything I need for it to run, or if all the components I have chosen will work together (compatible) or not. Please check my specs/components:
Newegg.com - AMD Phenom II X4 840 3.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor HDX840WFGMBOX
Newegg.com - Antec EarthWatts Green EA-380D Green 380W Continuous power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Newegg.com - Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Newegg.com - ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
Newegg.com - Asus VW199T-P Black 19" 5ms LED BackLight LCD Monitor w/Speakers 10,000,000:1
Newegg.com - Crucial Ballistix sport 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664BA160A
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N440D3-1GI GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
Newegg.com - Seagate Barracuda ST3500413AS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Newegg.com - ZALMAN 9500A-LED 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
Thank You,
Slasher
If you are not going to overclock, you shouldn't need Ballistix RAM, but Crucial is a good brand.
That's a good basic case.
Many here would try to steer you away from Seagate hard drives toward WD or Samsung, but you can obviously have good or bad luck with any of them.
That's a good basic case.
Many here would try to steer you away from Seagate hard drives toward WD or Samsung, but you can obviously have good or bad luck with any of them.
Just a suggestion for an alternate source of information. Toms Hardware Tom's Hardware: Hardware News, Tests and Reviews is FULL of people building home built computers, tracking the best configurations based on specific price-points and usages and they love to look over build specs and provide alternatives.
You might want to check it out.
Ski
You might want to check it out.
Ski
Hello,
I might think of overclocking later and I prefer Seagate to WD. So all the components listed will work well with each other?
I might think of overclocking later and I prefer Seagate to WD. So all the components listed will work well with each other?
I can't say that. I know next to nothing about AMD.
The power supply and case are certainly compatible with each other and should be fine.
But you need to check on the motherboard/RAM/processor compatibility. That's all AMD stuff and I can't help.
The power supply and case are certainly compatible with each other and should be fine.
But you need to check on the motherboard/RAM/processor compatibility. That's all AMD stuff and I can't help.
Can you call someone like whs to come help me? Im sure he knows loads about AMD
I can't contact any member any easier than you can yourself. I don't know WHS personally.
I'd guess others will comment on this thread if you have a bit of patience.
I'd guess others will comment on this thread if you have a bit of patience.
Anyone other than ignatzatsonic (thanks for the help btw) can help me check to see if all the components I have chosen for my desktop build will work together?
I would personally switch out the PSU and cooler with these ones,
Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7
Newegg.com - Computer Hardware,Power Supplies,Power Supplies,Antec,401W - 450W
rest of the parts look fine.
And I have used 4 of those Antec 300 cases in the past and I liked them.
We build my dad a new machine recently with almost the same parts you chose and it's working great.
I personally like WD drives, especially the Black series, like this one,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-320-_-Product
But I do have Seagates in my machine as well (6 WD and 3 Seagates currently inside)
Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7
Newegg.com - Computer Hardware,Power Supplies,Power Supplies,Antec,401W - 450W
rest of the parts look fine.
And I have used 4 of those Antec 300 cases in the past and I liked them.
We build my dad a new machine recently with almost the same parts you chose and it's working great.
I personally like WD drives, especially the Black series, like this one,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-320-_-Product
But I do have Seagates in my machine as well (6 WD and 3 Seagates currently inside)
Zepher made a good recommendation on the cooler. It does a great job, but I haven't checked if it mounts OK on an AMD motherboard. If it does, go with it.
Looks OK from top to bottom. About the only things I might change is the motherboard and the PSU. Seeing as your getting a video card you don't need a board with the 880G on it, something like this with the 870 on it would do,
Newegg.com - ASUS M4A87T AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s ATX AMD Motherboard
Only real difference between the two is the onboard video on the 880G, that and $25.00 cheaper. With that saving change the power supply for something a little bigger if for no other reason than possible upgrades down the line. Something like the earthwatts 500W would be a better choice,
Newegg.com - Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Only other thing is possibly the monitor, might want to try and stretch to at least a 22" over the 19".
Newegg.com - ASUS M4A87T AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s ATX AMD Motherboard
Only real difference between the two is the onboard video on the 880G, that and $25.00 cheaper. With that saving change the power supply for something a little bigger if for no other reason than possible upgrades down the line. Something like the earthwatts 500W would be a better choice,
Newegg.com - Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Only other thing is possibly the monitor, might want to try and stretch to at least a 22" over the 19".
�� Quote: Originally Posted by ignatzatsonic 
Zepher made a good recommendation on the cooler. It does a great job, but I haven't checked if it mounts OK on an AMD motherboard. If it does, go with it.
Ya, I'd find a better deal on a monitor. We just bought my nephew a 22" 1920x1080 Samsung B2230 monitor for $125 shipped 2 weeks ago. It's much larger than the 19" he was using.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...1385&Tpk=b2230
Hi,
I am gonna stick with Seagate, I like them.
@Zepher Can you be more specific as to why exactly I should change my heatsink?
@stormy13 I would prefer to have 19" over 20+" btw, I don't like a monitor that is too big, 19" is perfect for me. Although the motherboard you suggested to me looks great, it doesn't have USB 3.0, HDMI, and its less easier to overclock with it than with the motherboard I specified. If you can find something a motherboard like the one you have chosen for me, just with USB 3.0, HDMI and easier OC ability I will take it. I will now get the PSU you recommended.
I am gonna stick with Seagate, I like them.
@Zepher Can you be more specific as to why exactly I should change my heatsink?
@stormy13 I would prefer to have 19" over 20+" btw, I don't like a monitor that is too big, 19" is perfect for me. Although the motherboard you suggested to me looks great, it doesn't have USB 3.0, HDMI, and its less easier to overclock with it than with the motherboard I specified. If you can find something a motherboard like the one you have chosen for me, just with USB 3.0, HDMI and easier OC ability I will take it. I will now get the PSU you recommended.
It's cheaper and it works great.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-...2903962&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-...2903962&sr=8-1
Can you be more detailed? I'm not persuaded (soz).
Btw, I don't think I am gonna use the display you suggested for me to use because:
1. No built-in speakers
2. No LED Backlight
3. My display: Contrast Ratio is 10,000,000:1 Your display: Contrast Ratio is 70,000:1
4. My display uses much less watts than your does (I am a green person)
Btw, I don't think I am gonna use the display you suggested for me to use because:
1. No built-in speakers
2. No LED Backlight
3. My display: Contrast Ratio is 10,000,000:1 Your display: Contrast Ratio is 70,000:1
4. My display uses much less watts than your does (I am a green person)
How is the Amazon price $10 less than on Newegg? Strange...
I'm still not persuaded, I need facts please
I'm still not persuaded, I need facts please
The heatsink Zepher recommended has 120 mm fans rather than 92mm and is bound to be quieter. It likely cools at least as well, probably better. And you save $15 or $20. It's very highly regarded.
I think that Cooler can accept TWO fans. Some people put a push fan on one side and a pull fan on the other if they really get into overclocking and are concerned with heat.
I think that Cooler can accept TWO fans. Some people put a push fan on one side and a pull fan on the other if they really get into overclocking and are concerned with heat.
Oh, I wasn't suggesting that screen, just showing what we got for $125 and it's perfect for what we use it for.
Also, don't get too caught up in specs because those dynamic contrast ratio features can be annoying with the screen dimming and brightening up very noticeably.
I turn off DCR if I can.
The price of the cooler was at one time $25 at both places, and going to $30 occasionally.
My brothers machine ran 10* cooler at idle just swapping in the cooler and would stay lower than 60* overclocked running Prime95.
Also, don't get too caught up in specs because those dynamic contrast ratio features can be annoying with the screen dimming and brightening up very noticeably.
I turn off DCR if I can.
The price of the cooler was at one time $25 at both places, and going to $30 occasionally.
My brothers machine ran 10* cooler at idle just swapping in the cooler and would stay lower than 60* overclocked running Prime95.
Well in that case, I'll take the new cooler. So this is what I have now:
Newegg.com - AMD Phenom II X4 840 3.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor HDX840WFGMBOX
Newegg.com - Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Newegg.com - Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Newegg.com - ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
Newegg.com - Asus VW199T-P Black 19" 5ms LED BackLight LCD Monitor w/Speakers 10,000,000:1
Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7
Newegg.com - Crucial Ballistix sport 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664BA160A
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N440D3-1GI GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
Newegg.com - Seagate Barracuda ST3500413AS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Could someone please review it again and make sure everything works fine together.
Newegg.com - AMD Phenom II X4 840 3.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor HDX840WFGMBOX
Newegg.com - Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Newegg.com - Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Newegg.com - ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
Newegg.com - Asus VW199T-P Black 19" 5ms LED BackLight LCD Monitor w/Speakers 10,000,000:1
Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7
Newegg.com - Crucial Ballistix sport 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664BA160A
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N440D3-1GI GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
Newegg.com - Seagate Barracuda ST3500413AS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Could someone please review it again and make sure everything works fine together.
everything looks fine.
Really? So you think I am ready to start ordering the stuff?
yep.
Could you try to find me a motherboard without the graphics card in it, but everything else exactly the same?
There isn't one EXACTLY the same, but this is close:
Newegg.com - ASUS M4A79XTD EVO AM3 AMD 790X ATX AMD Motherboard
Newegg.com - ASUS M4A79XTD EVO AM3 AMD 790X ATX AMD Motherboard
Hey,
I need the following in a motherboard:
Core Unlocker
Easy OC
USB 3.0
HDMI
SATA 6 GB/s
Anything else I can find for cheaper price? I don't give a crap about the built-in Radeon HD4250, as it won't work in conjunction with the Geforce GT 440 I am getting.
Also, how can I get WLAN on this tower?
I need the following in a motherboard:
Core Unlocker
Easy OC
USB 3.0
HDMI
SATA 6 GB/s
Anything else I can find for cheaper price? I don't give a crap about the built-in Radeon HD4250, as it won't work in conjunction with the Geforce GT 440 I am getting.
Also, how can I get WLAN on this tower?
Here are 72 AMD boards with HDMI, beginning at 59.99. Page through them and find your features.
Newegg.com - Computer Hardware,Motherboards,AMD Motherboards,1 x HDMI
Newegg.com - Computer Hardware,Motherboards,AMD Motherboards,1 x HDMI
Dude, can you help me find out how I could put WLAN on my build?
Also, my RAM runs at a default of 1600MHz, but the motherboard I have says it supports the following Memory Standard: DDR3 2000(O.C.) / 1333 / 1066. 1600 is not listed though, so is it possible to run the RAM with this motherboard at 1600MHz or no?
Also, my RAM runs at a default of 1600MHz, but the motherboard I have says it supports the following Memory Standard: DDR3 2000(O.C.) / 1333 / 1066. 1600 is not listed though, so is it possible to run the RAM with this motherboard at 1600MHz or no?
Anyone?
�� Quote: Originally Posted by SlasherIT Hey,
I need the following in a motherboard:
1. Core Unlocker
2. Easy OC
3. USB 3.0
4. HDMI
5. SATA 6 GB/s
Anything else I can find for cheaper price? I don't give a crap about the built-in Radeon HD4250, as it won't work in conjunction with the Geforce GT 440 I am getting.
Also, how can I get WLAN on this tower?
I need the following in a motherboard:
1. Core Unlocker
2. Easy OC
3. USB 3.0
4. HDMI
5. SATA 6 GB/s
Anything else I can find for cheaper price? I don't give a crap about the built-in Radeon HD4250, as it won't work in conjunction with the Geforce GT 440 I am getting.
Also, how can I get WLAN on this tower?
2. Newegg.com - ASUS M4A87TD/USB3 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 AMD Motherboard
3. Don't rely on software to overclock, even if it is from the board maker. learn how to do it in the bios.
3. Can't get a board with HDMI without it having the onboard video. Besides, the GT 440 you're looking at has a HDMI port.
5. See #2
As for WLAN, pick your price and how you want it in the computer,
Newegg.com - Computer Hardware,Networking,Wireless Networking,Wireless Adapters,PCI
Newegg.com - Computer Hardware,Networking,Wireless Networking,Wireless Adapters,PCI Express
Newegg.com - Computer Hardware,Networking,Wireless Networking,Wireless Adapters,USB 2.0
What Audio device and LAN device make is included in the motherboard you specified? Btw forget it, I'm gonna stick with my current motherboard choice. But can you answer this question its important:
My RAM runs at a default of 1600MHz, but the motherboard I have says it supports the following Memory Standard: DDR3 2000(O.C.) / 1333 / 1066. 1600 is not listed though, so is it possible to run the RAM with this motherboard at 1600MHz or no?
My RAM runs at a default of 1600MHz, but the motherboard I have says it supports the following Memory Standard: DDR3 2000(O.C.) / 1333 / 1066. 1600 is not listed though, so is it possible to run the RAM with this motherboard at 1600MHz or no?
Anyone?
It will be fine- been quite awhile since I have looked at that stuff but your actual ram speed is determined by (if I remember correctly) your cpu multiplier and your fsb (front side bus) for example: an increase of either (maybe just fsb-my own memory problems-lol) will raise your cpu speed (and your mem speed) --overclocking--this will make your system unstable- to compensate for the instability your cpu and maybe your memory voltages are then raised which brings stability but also HEAT- if heat were not the enemy then every computer out there would be running twice as fast. the right combo for YOUR system needs trial and error- do ALOT of reading about overclocking before trying it-
This was a bit simplified as mem overclocking like gpu overclocking is a bit of a different subject-----This is confusing enough if you don't already know it....
The real short story is your choice looks to be a good one.......yay!
Bill
EDIT: for a wireless card I would just get the same brand as your router- while not a requirement it may make setup easier- my linksys router has a button to enable an easy setup with security when using my PCI linksys card- works great- again not required but easy and secure as I can make it.
This was a bit simplified as mem overclocking like gpu overclocking is a bit of a different subject-----This is confusing enough if you don't already know it....
The real short story is your choice looks to be a good one.......yay!
Bill
EDIT: for a wireless card I would just get the same brand as your router- while not a requirement it may make setup easier- my linksys router has a button to enable an easy setup with security when using my PCI linksys card- works great- again not required but easy and secure as I can make it.
If you can spring for the dough, an SSD as a boot drive would make the whole thing seem a million times faster. If not, consider it as your best upgrade option down the road.
One thing you might want to do is tell us what you plan on using the computer for. it's easier to give advice when you know what the user plans to do with it.
One thing you might want to do is tell us what you plan on using the computer for. it's easier to give advice when you know what the user plans to do with it.
Here is some RAM rated for the same speed as your board.
Newegg.com - Crucial Ballistix sport 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664BA1339
It's $2.00 cheaper as well so can buy a quart of beer to consume during your build
Newegg.com - Crucial Ballistix sport 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664BA1339
It's $2.00 cheaper as well so can buy a quart of beer to consume during your build
Something to ponder with regards to the ram speed,
VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING AMD AM3 CPU's and RAM SPEEDS
VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING AMD AM3 CPU's and RAM SPEEDS
Lolz at $2 less, I'll stick with my current RAM choice. Thanks for the facts bill. Btw I am not gonna buy an SSD, right now they are too expensive, I'll probably get one later on if they get cheaper. Lol, for $40, I can get an 8GB SSD, or for $35 I can get a 500GB Seagate Barracuda. Which one would you get? Seems obvious...
Stormy13, thanks for that news, I am gonna switch my RAM to the one 1foxracing suggested. Why AMD, why?!!??!!!??!!
Ok guys, I have updated my build again, and changed the RAM, and added Wi-Fi and a DVD Burner/Reader. The Build:
Newegg.com - AMD Phenom II X4 840 3.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor HDX840WFGMBOX
Newegg.com - Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Newegg.com - Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Newegg.com - ASUS Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - CD / DVD Burners
Newegg.com - ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
Newegg.com - ASUS PCE-N13 IEEE 802.11b/g/n PCI Express Wireless Adapter Up to 300Mbps Wireless Data Rates 64-bit/128-bit WEP, TKIP, and AES WI-Fi alliance WPA, WPA2
Newegg.com - Asus VW199T-P Black 19" 5ms LED BackLight LCD Monitor w/Speakers 10,000,000:1
Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7
Newegg.com - Crucial Ballistix sport 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664BA1339
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N440D3-1GI GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
Newegg.com - Seagate Barracuda ST3500413AS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Sorry, but please check again for total compatibility. Thanks guys.
Slasher
Newegg.com - AMD Phenom II X4 840 3.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor HDX840WFGMBOX
Newegg.com - Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Newegg.com - Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Newegg.com - ASUS Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - CD / DVD Burners
Newegg.com - ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
Newegg.com - ASUS PCE-N13 IEEE 802.11b/g/n PCI Express Wireless Adapter Up to 300Mbps Wireless Data Rates 64-bit/128-bit WEP, TKIP, and AES WI-Fi alliance WPA, WPA2
Newegg.com - Asus VW199T-P Black 19" 5ms LED BackLight LCD Monitor w/Speakers 10,000,000:1
Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7
Newegg.com - Crucial Ballistix sport 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664BA1339
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N440D3-1GI GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
Newegg.com - Seagate Barracuda ST3500413AS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Sorry, but please check again for total compatibility. Thanks guys.
Slasher
Your good to go with those parts listed. I did look over everything you gave NewEgg links to and they are showing your DVD burner as "out of stock"
Newegg.com - ASUS Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - CD / DVD Burners
Just pick another OEM model as they are all pretty close to the same price.
Enjoy that quart of beer now with the $2.00 saved on the RAM.
Newegg.com - ASUS Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - CD / DVD Burners
Just pick another OEM model as they are all pretty close to the same price.
Enjoy that quart of beer now with the $2.00 saved on the RAM.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by SlasherIT ...I am not gonna buy an SSD, right now they are too expensive, I'll probably get one later on if they get cheaper. Lol, for $40, I can get an 8GB SSD, or for $35 I can get a 500GB Seagate Barracuda. Which one would you get? Seems obvious...
Like I said before, it'll make a nice upgrade down the road.
Lolz wtf!!! It ran out of stock already? I picked it only yesterday. Jeeze, I'm gonna wait for new stock. There was either this or Sony to choose from, and I decided to go with Asus as their products have low failure rates and are higher quality than some Sony products. I am also choosing lots of Asus stuff for this build, so more Asus wouldn't hurt.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148323
This is a link to some 1333 ram its 54.xx free shipping- it is faster ram than the other 1333 and probably faster in the long run than the 1600- the reason is timing- its 7-7-7-24 (this is good)
I am certainly not a teacher but will try to explain this- The ram is a pipline that feeds the cpu- the 1333 or 1600 is the size of the pipe- so a bigger number is better-
Now while that is an easy concept there is a bit more to it. Think of the memory timings as pressure. (well inverse pressure- maybe should have thrown restrictions in there but then still backwards to explain)
Anyway the bigger the pipe-- the lower the pressure-- (this means higher timings) The point of all this is the lower the timing number the faster it flows thru a given size pipe- so if the pipe is sized 1333 then it will flow more to the cpu if it has lower (faster) timings.
It to me seem way worth less than ten bucks for the better memory.
The 1600 would have (probably) run at 1333 or lower unless you forced it but I am not certain with amd cpu/boards. At 1600 its latencies are 10-10-10-28 (but remember its a bigger pipe)- and if run slower (1333) it could flow faster (lower numbers)- but big difference between 10xxx and 7xxx so this stuff probably actually better.
I got this info at crucial after selecting your mobo for compatible memory- http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=M4A88TD-V%20EVO%2FUSB3
Great link Stormy (repped) - but it doesnt explain why there is a ton of 'faster than 1333 memory on both crucials website and asus QVL (qualified venders list) (maybe just for folks that like playing with fire?) (no not being an aSSet- just observing)
Good luck (sill--again :-) )
Bill
This is a link to some 1333 ram its 54.xx free shipping- it is faster ram than the other 1333 and probably faster in the long run than the 1600- the reason is timing- its 7-7-7-24 (this is good)
I am certainly not a teacher but will try to explain this- The ram is a pipline that feeds the cpu- the 1333 or 1600 is the size of the pipe- so a bigger number is better-
Now while that is an easy concept there is a bit more to it. Think of the memory timings as pressure. (well inverse pressure- maybe should have thrown restrictions in there but then still backwards to explain)
Anyway the bigger the pipe-- the lower the pressure-- (this means higher timings) The point of all this is the lower the timing number the faster it flows thru a given size pipe- so if the pipe is sized 1333 then it will flow more to the cpu if it has lower (faster) timings.
It to me seem way worth less than ten bucks for the better memory.
The 1600 would have (probably) run at 1333 or lower unless you forced it but I am not certain with amd cpu/boards. At 1600 its latencies are 10-10-10-28 (but remember its a bigger pipe)- and if run slower (1333) it could flow faster (lower numbers)- but big difference between 10xxx and 7xxx so this stuff probably actually better.
I got this info at crucial after selecting your mobo for compatible memory- http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=M4A88TD-V%20EVO%2FUSB3
Great link Stormy (repped) - but it doesnt explain why there is a ton of 'faster than 1333 memory on both crucials website and asus QVL (qualified venders list) (maybe just for folks that like playing with fire?) (no not being an aSSet- just observing)
Good luck (sill--again :-) )
Bill
Hey Bill, great info, I didn't even know until now what those numbers were for. I decided to listen to you, and pay up $10 more for this RAM, as it seems much better than the one I had chosen.
Great, so am I set?
Great, so am I set?
Oh yeah, looks like a great build- when you first fire it up suggest you go into bios and check that your ram is the right voltage- and temps are good. when you change the voltage hit save and exit- your comp will shut down- dont have a coronary. it will start right back up- needs to when changing voltages. (or they used to anyway- havent done this for a several years) then re enter bios and see what if anything needs adjusting to fit your system-
There is a good review of your board here- also has a short video showing the bios- sure looks like a great board.
ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 review
Here is a link from toms hardware- bios for begginers- it shows an award bios (yours is ami). Did not even look hard enough to determine if its AMD or 'the other guys'-- many things still the same regardless of the floorplan- If your not comfortable with bios settings then good read for you while waiting for parts.
BIOS for Beginners : Introduction
Waaay back when you used to have to tell the mainboard nearly everything- on one board I even had to tell it what processor was stuck into it- things are so much easier now. Some (most) had rows of little bitty switchs (dip switches) (AHHHHHHH)
One concern is the video is showing many different settings that can be adjusted- they are just showing you the options-- not what yours should be. Primary thing I noticed was setting ram speed to 1333. even though yours is rated at 1333 it may or may not actually run at that speed. Changing this even to 1333 could affect system stability. So leave everything on auto ecxcept dram voltage. the voltage that is preset or selected by the board is the grey number in the video- if that is 1.65 then leave it alone also. If you want good info on your system with everything on auto the bios should tell you, the windows/system screen gives often incorrect info on a home built system- to really know download and run cpu-z (used to be cpu-z not sure if it still is the tool of choice- google it) it will tell you a lot of accurate info on your new system. Also suggest downloading a tempature program and a stress test program. the idea is to stress all your cpu's at the same time and monitor temps. This stuff is easily obtainable and probably in toms article or go to the overclocking thread. Not recommending you overclock, remember leave everything on auto? I always thought it nice to know system specs and stability.
Down load a copy of your mobo book while doing research- makes the real thing much easier.....
Good build have fun.
Bill
There is a good review of your board here- also has a short video showing the bios- sure looks like a great board.
ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 review
Here is a link from toms hardware- bios for begginers- it shows an award bios (yours is ami). Did not even look hard enough to determine if its AMD or 'the other guys'-- many things still the same regardless of the floorplan- If your not comfortable with bios settings then good read for you while waiting for parts.
BIOS for Beginners : Introduction
Waaay back when you used to have to tell the mainboard nearly everything- on one board I even had to tell it what processor was stuck into it- things are so much easier now. Some (most) had rows of little bitty switchs (dip switches) (AHHHHHHH)
One concern is the video is showing many different settings that can be adjusted- they are just showing you the options-- not what yours should be. Primary thing I noticed was setting ram speed to 1333. even though yours is rated at 1333 it may or may not actually run at that speed. Changing this even to 1333 could affect system stability. So leave everything on auto ecxcept dram voltage. the voltage that is preset or selected by the board is the grey number in the video- if that is 1.65 then leave it alone also. If you want good info on your system with everything on auto the bios should tell you, the windows/system screen gives often incorrect info on a home built system- to really know download and run cpu-z (used to be cpu-z not sure if it still is the tool of choice- google it) it will tell you a lot of accurate info on your new system. Also suggest downloading a tempature program and a stress test program. the idea is to stress all your cpu's at the same time and monitor temps. This stuff is easily obtainable and probably in toms article or go to the overclocking thread. Not recommending you overclock, remember leave everything on auto? I always thought it nice to know system specs and stability.
Down load a copy of your mobo book while doing research- makes the real thing much easier.....
Good build have fun.
Bill
Hey,
Ok thanks for the info. +Rep. I am going to overclock by the way, so is my Power Supply Unit (500W) enough or would I need even a bigger PSU. By the way, is L3 Cache in your opinion important? Because the CPU I have chosen has no L3 cache, and am wondering if that is ok.
Slasher
Ok thanks for the info. +Rep. I am going to overclock by the way, so is my Power Supply Unit (500W) enough or would I need even a bigger PSU. By the way, is L3 Cache in your opinion important? Because the CPU I have chosen has no L3 cache, and am wondering if that is ok.
Slasher
If your going to over clock then the 955 BE is a much better CPU (unlocked)
Newegg.com - AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor HDZ955FBGMBOX
If your thinking of upgrading your GPU in the future you might want to move up to a 650W power supply as well.
Newegg.com - AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor HDZ955FBGMBOX
If your thinking of upgrading your GPU in the future you might want to move up to a 650W power supply as well.
What does it mean by the multipliers are unlocked? Can't I overclock already without the 'multipliers' overclocked? Bill, care to explain?
Well this is a different subject already... :-)
He is correct about the multipliers, you can overclock either way but have more, better options than a intensionally limited processor.
More on that below-
Psu wont be really affected by an overclock- yes it is doing more and will use more power but tiny amounts compared to the addition of an extra video card or two....
If you really want to do some overclocking then both cpu and cooler are marginal- now when I built current desktop it was the same month my c2d e8400 came out it was roughly 200 bucks- at that time a 3 ghz c2d that was unlocked was at least three times that cost- that was my choice for the standard processor.
By marginal in terms of the processor, I mean not as good or easy- by marginal in terms of cooler I mean good overclock or bad one.
As mentioned above- heat is the enemy- the unlocked processor has a much better chance of not overheating for a given trial-(speed) but the cooler is king of this process- liquid is best but expensive- air cooling is for the rest of us.
I googled and came up with a website all about cooling- when you get into overclocking EVERYTHING is its own subject.......
frostytech tested and made a list with the top 10 coolers- Top 5 Intel & AMD Heatsinks on Frostytech
now I have had many dealing with thermaltakes b-stock store and they have a frio for 39.99- their shipping is not out of line and I have been quite satisfied with the products.
Welcome to Thermaltake
Another thing to consider is "Will a big a$$ cooler fit both my case and motherboard (meaning will it hit the ram or the northbridge etc..) -" read all the case reviews at new egg and see someone already built your setup. or at least fit the cooler in the case...maybe just google it.
Now for the multiplier- really cant explain it faster than these guys- giving you a link, Got it by googling "how to overclock" you need to do some reading as I really cant explain many of the questions you have (or will have..hehe) so look here-
Overclocking FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) - How to Overclock! - Overclockers Club
I would add that most overclocking is for hours of fun- some hair pulling and bragging rights. The real change in computing speed is generational and the best overclocker in the world cant make a 486 in a warehouse sized case faster than my laptop----even with liquid nitrogen......
cheers,
Bill
He is correct about the multipliers, you can overclock either way but have more, better options than a intensionally limited processor.
More on that below-
Psu wont be really affected by an overclock- yes it is doing more and will use more power but tiny amounts compared to the addition of an extra video card or two....
If you really want to do some overclocking then both cpu and cooler are marginal- now when I built current desktop it was the same month my c2d e8400 came out it was roughly 200 bucks- at that time a 3 ghz c2d that was unlocked was at least three times that cost- that was my choice for the standard processor.
By marginal in terms of the processor, I mean not as good or easy- by marginal in terms of cooler I mean good overclock or bad one.
As mentioned above- heat is the enemy- the unlocked processor has a much better chance of not overheating for a given trial-(speed) but the cooler is king of this process- liquid is best but expensive- air cooling is for the rest of us.
I googled and came up with a website all about cooling- when you get into overclocking EVERYTHING is its own subject.......
frostytech tested and made a list with the top 10 coolers- Top 5 Intel & AMD Heatsinks on Frostytech
now I have had many dealing with thermaltakes b-stock store and they have a frio for 39.99- their shipping is not out of line and I have been quite satisfied with the products.
Welcome to Thermaltake
Another thing to consider is "Will a big a$$ cooler fit both my case and motherboard (meaning will it hit the ram or the northbridge etc..) -" read all the case reviews at new egg and see someone already built your setup. or at least fit the cooler in the case...maybe just google it.
Now for the multiplier- really cant explain it faster than these guys- giving you a link, Got it by googling "how to overclock" you need to do some reading as I really cant explain many of the questions you have (or will have..hehe) so look here-
Overclocking FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) - How to Overclock! - Overclockers Club
I would add that most overclocking is for hours of fun- some hair pulling and bragging rights. The real change in computing speed is generational and the best overclocker in the world cant make a 486 in a warehouse sized case faster than my laptop----even with liquid nitrogen......
cheers,
Bill
Hi,
I will think about it before thinking of getting the AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz (thanks for info on multiplier bill). I have heard that there are some disabled cores on this processor, is that true or not? You really suggest I change my cooler? Is it not good enough?
Slasher
I will think about it before thinking of getting the AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz (thanks for info on multiplier bill). I have heard that there are some disabled cores on this processor, is that true or not? You really suggest I change my cooler? Is it not good enough?
Slasher
disabled cores- maybe, not sure- if they proved to cause problems or probably to much heat- havent been reading many tech articles for quite awhile- the 'unlocked' is for more mulitpliers which you could use for overclocking not additional cores.
The cooler you selected is a good unit but if you want a decent overclock then you want a great unit. Pesky heat thing-
It comes down to how interested in overclocking you are.
tough choices huh!!! :-)
Bill
The cooler you selected is a good unit but if you want a decent overclock then you want a great unit. Pesky heat thing-
It comes down to how interested in overclocking you are.
tough choices huh!!! :-)
Bill
Lolz kind of. Suppose I wanna overclock the CPU to 3.8 GHz from 3.2 GHz, would my cooler be fine?
Would this cooler fan be better? Will it fit in my case and motherboard?
Newegg.com - Thermaltake Frio Overclocking-Ready Intel Core i7 (six-core ready) & i5 Compatible Five 8mm Heatpipes Dual 120mm Fans Intel & AMD Universal CPU Cooler CLP0564
Newegg.com - Thermaltake Frio Overclocking-Ready Intel Core i7 (six-core ready) & i5 Compatible Five 8mm Heatpipes Dual 120mm Fans Intel & AMD Universal CPU Cooler CLP0564
�� Quote: Originally Posted by SlasherIT Would this cooler fan be better? Will it fit in my case and motherboard?
Newegg.com - Thermaltake Frio Overclocking-Ready Intel Core i7 (six-core ready) & i5 Compatible Five 8mm Heatpipes Dual 120mm Fans Intel & AMD Universal CPU Cooler CLP0564
Newegg.com - Thermaltake Frio Overclocking-Ready Intel Core i7 (six-core ready) & i5 Compatible Five 8mm Heatpipes Dual 120mm Fans Intel & AMD Universal CPU Cooler CLP0564
You need to read reviews at newegg and see what fortune oithers have had- you will see results are greatly staggered. this is often using poor thermal paste or poor installation technique- read the cooler manufacturers installation instructions.
I would get the better components even if it delays the build for a paycheck- the week or two wont hurt that bad and this comp will be fast enough you will probably use it for 3-5 years. Also remember if you do a overclock and its running a bit hot then time will kick in- a month or two (or12) goes by quickly and dustballs happen- your cooling will never be as effective as when new-
will it fit? also look for at newegg reviews- maybe google-
Bill
There are no additional cores to unlock from the 955, it is already a 4 core and will not unlock to a 6 core. Now some of the Athlon II X3 (450 & 455) will unlock to 4 cores and some of the Phenom II X2 (555, 560, 565) will unlock to 4 cores as well. There is no guarantee that any of them will unlock though, it's a roll of the dice so to say.
I'm running my own 955 at 4.2 GHz with a Corsair A50 cooler.
Newegg.com - CORSAIR CAFA50 120mm CPU Cooler
Never got above 53deg running prime95 for 8 hours.
I'm running my own 955 at 4.2 GHz with a Corsair A50 cooler.
Newegg.com - CORSAIR CAFA50 120mm CPU Cooler
Never got above 53deg running prime95 for 8 hours.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by 1foxracing There are no additional cores to unlock from the 955, it is already a 4 core and will not unlock to a 6 core. Now some of the Athlon II X3 (450 & 455) will unlock to 4 cores and some of the Phenom II X2 (555, 560, 565) will unlock to 4 cores as well. There is no guarantee that any of them will unlock though, it's a roll of the dice so to say.
I'm running my own 955 at 4.2 GHz with a Corsair A50 cooler.
Newegg.com - CORSAIR CAFA50 120mm CPU Cooler
Never got above 53deg running prime95 for 8 hours.
I'm running my own 955 at 4.2 GHz with a Corsair A50 cooler.
Newegg.com - CORSAIR CAFA50 120mm CPU Cooler
Never got above 53deg running prime95 for 8 hours.
Thanks for the info--- Slasher You have more choices- lol- lucky you!
It's tough isnt it- the above cooler not only has a reference but a rebate making it less than $25.
Hmmmmm.
tempting
Bill
Which cooler should I get? I am really confused.
�� Quote: Originally Posted by SlasherIT Which cooler should I get? I am really confused.
Spec-wise, which is better?
Spec's don't do more than general info- fan size and whatnot- they do not have a btu rating for heat transfer. This make things difficult. Thats why we read a lot of the reviews on newegg-
Processor specs we get from a chart- Ram also- but what actually fits in a given case or how does a cooler work we read professional reviews and newegg reviews.
Not quick and easy but you will learn stuff along the way- Also why we cant choose for you because it IS a choice- the more reading done the more informed, and better the choice is.
You just gotta go with what YOU like after some reading- if you ask 15 people you will prob get a dozen different answers- Why I said before- It's tough isn't it.
All will work, don't think there is a lemon in the group- so just get the one that fits the wallet and you feel confidant in.
Bill
Processor specs we get from a chart- Ram also- but what actually fits in a given case or how does a cooler work we read professional reviews and newegg reviews.
Not quick and easy but you will learn stuff along the way- Also why we cant choose for you because it IS a choice- the more reading done the more informed, and better the choice is.
You just gotta go with what YOU like after some reading- if you ask 15 people you will prob get a dozen different answers- Why I said before- It's tough isn't it.
All will work, don't think there is a lemon in the group- so just get the one that fits the wallet and you feel confidant in.
Bill
Bill, what does Air flow in CFM mean?
example:
Air flow: 21.2 - 76.8 CFM
I'm confused in what that means.
Also, I am choosing between 2 coolers. One of them's max RPM is 2000, while the second's max RPM is 2500. Is it worth to get the one with more RPM? It is $23 more than the cooler with max RPM of 2000.
example:
Air flow: 21.2 - 76.8 CFM
I'm confused in what that means.
Also, I am choosing between 2 coolers. One of them's max RPM is 2000, while the second's max RPM is 2500. Is it worth to get the one with more RPM? It is $23 more than the cooler with max RPM of 2000.
i had that HD and within 3months it failed , go for samsung or another brand lol
CFM stands for cubic feet per minute. It is a measurement of how much air a fan moves per minute.
I wouldn't get caught up in the RPM numbers. A higher RPM does not necessarily mean a fan moves more air. Higher RPM fans tend to make more noise and the additional rpm may not provide anything you need--just more noise. It's tough to gauge what fan is best in a particular situation without actual experimentation. There are a lot of variables---your case design, your heatsink, other fans in the case, work load, room temperatures, etc.
I wouldn't get caught up in the RPM numbers. A higher RPM does not necessarily mean a fan moves more air. Higher RPM fans tend to make more noise and the additional rpm may not provide anything you need--just more noise. It's tough to gauge what fan is best in a particular situation without actual experimentation. There are a lot of variables---your case design, your heatsink, other fans in the case, work load, room temperatures, etc.
So more CFM is more important than more RPM?
Yes. 1 rpm is fine---if the fan moves enough air.
If 2 fans are identical, the one with more rpm will move more air. But 2 fans are not identical and the slower rpm fan may move enough air. Why make unnecessary noise when the slower fan does what you need? A lower rpm fan may move more air than a higher rpm fan. It depends on blade count, blade length, blade design--and rpm.
Just think of the propeller on a little airplane versus a large one. The little propeller may have a higher rpm, but it will move a LOT less air.
If 2 fans are identical, the one with more rpm will move more air. But 2 fans are not identical and the slower rpm fan may move enough air. Why make unnecessary noise when the slower fan does what you need? A lower rpm fan may move more air than a higher rpm fan. It depends on blade count, blade length, blade design--and rpm.
Just think of the propeller on a little airplane versus a large one. The little propeller may have a higher rpm, but it will move a LOT less air.
cfm= cubic feet per minute- fan speeds usually go downward with larger fans---how much air it blows is more of an indicator of noise than actual cooling- faster (usually) means more noise and a smaller fan- but even noise comes varies according to its enviroment- So I wil stick to the opinion you cant pick a cooler from specs-
If a fan on unit A blows 21.2- 76.8 cfm (at system idle fan idles too- when processor heats up by 'doing' more than the mobo tell the fan to speed up and blow more air across the heatsink.)
Anyway- cooler A blows 76.8 cfm and cooler B blows 112.6 cfm then which one does a better job of cooling?
Who knows- there is more air and probably more noise blowing across the heatsink of cooler B- this will not run cooler than unit A if the heatsink design is ineffective- (or maybe it will actually displace more heat- lol) There is no real answer to your questions other than CFM= cubic feet.......... and read the reviews-
A note about airflow- Unit A in case A with motherboard A-- works great so that guy says AWESOME DUDE- now guy 2 buys unit A- puts in case B that has motherboard B- different things can happen, maybe the ram won't even fit- or everything fits but cooler doesn't work as well because the airfow is quite different. Inside case B- where is the power supply and all its wires? do they block airflow? how about the northbridge- does it have a large heatsink and blocks some airflow- how about MB powersupply wires or dvd drive wires- do they block some airflow in one case but not the other? If guy 2 writes a review and says WELL IT WORKS but not much better than stock......
Another thing is installation- two guys with identical setups might get very different results. Read the cooler manufacturers instructions and follow them to the letter- get a tube of artic silver too- it is KNOWN to be great thermal paste. The thermal paste makes 100% 'contact' between the cpu and the heatsink- without it there will be gaps as neither are PERFECTLY flat- a gap that can only be measured in 10 or 100 thousandths of an inch is still a gap and will not transfer heat well.
so google and read professional reviews on both your canidates- then double check newegg reviews- the newegg reviews are good because the pro's prob have the motherboard sitting on the bench and dont have clearance or airflow problems- their focus is the cooler itself NOT will it work for every and all circumstance- the newegg guys are a crapshoot of tech level but all real life installs--
Happy reading
Bill
If a fan on unit A blows 21.2- 76.8 cfm (at system idle fan idles too- when processor heats up by 'doing' more than the mobo tell the fan to speed up and blow more air across the heatsink.)
Anyway- cooler A blows 76.8 cfm and cooler B blows 112.6 cfm then which one does a better job of cooling?
Who knows- there is more air and probably more noise blowing across the heatsink of cooler B- this will not run cooler than unit A if the heatsink design is ineffective- (or maybe it will actually displace more heat- lol) There is no real answer to your questions other than CFM= cubic feet.......... and read the reviews-
A note about airflow- Unit A in case A with motherboard A-- works great so that guy says AWESOME DUDE- now guy 2 buys unit A- puts in case B that has motherboard B- different things can happen, maybe the ram won't even fit- or everything fits but cooler doesn't work as well because the airfow is quite different. Inside case B- where is the power supply and all its wires? do they block airflow? how about the northbridge- does it have a large heatsink and blocks some airflow- how about MB powersupply wires or dvd drive wires- do they block some airflow in one case but not the other? If guy 2 writes a review and says WELL IT WORKS but not much better than stock......
Another thing is installation- two guys with identical setups might get very different results. Read the cooler manufacturers instructions and follow them to the letter- get a tube of artic silver too- it is KNOWN to be great thermal paste. The thermal paste makes 100% 'contact' between the cpu and the heatsink- without it there will be gaps as neither are PERFECTLY flat- a gap that can only be measured in 10 or 100 thousandths of an inch is still a gap and will not transfer heat well.
so google and read professional reviews on both your canidates- then double check newegg reviews- the newegg reviews are good because the pro's prob have the motherboard sitting on the bench and dont have clearance or airflow problems- their focus is the cooler itself NOT will it work for every and all circumstance- the newegg guys are a crapshoot of tech level but all real life installs--
Happy reading
Bill
Well, I'm sticking to the current fan I had in build, its perfect for my needs.
Sorry again, but one more question, which graphics card is better:
This: Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N440D3-1GI GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
or
This: Newegg.com - SAPPHIRE 100287VGAL Radeon HD 5670 (Redwood) 512MB 128-bit DDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
Sorry again, but one more question, which graphics card is better:
This: Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N440D3-1GI GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
or
This: Newegg.com - SAPPHIRE 100287VGAL Radeon HD 5670 (Redwood) 512MB 128-bit DDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
Honestly I think you can get a better card than either of those for just a bit more money. You can get the Gigabyte GTS 450 for just a bit more, and it has more than twice as many stream processors as the GS 440.
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N450-1GI GeForce GTS 450 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
I find that the best "bang for your buck" cards live in the $150-$250 range so that's where I normally go, but that would be for a gaming card. You haven't really said what you're going to be doing with this computer. If I were getting a graphics card, it might be this one:
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N465MT-1GI GeForce GTX 465 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N450-1GI GeForce GTS 450 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
I find that the best "bang for your buck" cards live in the $150-$250 range so that's where I normally go, but that would be for a gaming card. You haven't really said what you're going to be doing with this computer. If I were getting a graphics card, it might be this one:
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N465MT-1GI GeForce GTX 465 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
�� Quote: Originally Posted by mastacox Honestly I think you can get a better card than either of those for just a bit more money. You can get the Gigabyte GTS 450 for just a bit more, and it has more than twice as many stream processors as the GS 440.
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N450-1GI GeForce GTS 450 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
I find that the best "bang for your buck" cards live in the $150-$250 range so that's where I normally go, but that would be for a gaming card. You haven't really said what you're going to be doing with this computer. If I were getting a graphics card, it might be this one:
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N465MT-1GI GeForce GTX 465 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N450-1GI GeForce GTS 450 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
I find that the best "bang for your buck" cards live in the $150-$250 range so that's where I normally go, but that would be for a gaming card. You haven't really said what you're going to be doing with this computer. If I were getting a graphics card, it might be this one:
Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GV-N465MT-1GI GeForce GTX 465 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Highlighted a couple of his statements cuz there right on- (well 150 -200?) - also the nvidia vs ati battle rages on and many are firmly fixed one way or the other-
The cost does not NEED to be right now- get up and running then add card later-
cut/past from another thread:
link, hope this helps-
Best Graphics Cards For the Money: March 2011 : March Updates
Bill
Why does the GTX 465 have a lower core and memory clock than the GTS 450?
In a nutshell, because it has 352 processor cores instead of 192. Trust me, the 465 is a lot faster (and lightyears ahead of the GT 440).
Yes, I understand that the GTX 465 has more processor cores, but why would it have a lower core and memory clock than the GTS 450?
For one, it reduces power consumption and runs cooler.
(Actually, that's two - isn't it.)
(Actually, that's two - isn't it.)
Dollar for dollar the 460 gtx is probably better than 465- read toms hardware article-link in previous post-
Clocks and cores---remember single core processors- clock speeds were high-- the 'new' dual core processors came out with two cores and much slower clock speeds- the duals trounced the single cores in the amount of data they could process- same thing again when quad cores came out-
video card same thing...
Clocks and cores---remember single core processors- clock speeds were high-- the 'new' dual core processors came out with two cores and much slower clock speeds- the duals trounced the single cores in the amount of data they could process- same thing again when quad cores came out-
video card same thing...
I'll think about getting the GTX 465. Is the GTX 465 a lot better than the 460? If so, what are the main differences between the two?
???
You need to start using google- found this BUT didnt read enough to see if I even agree with it-
this is a cut paste-
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http://www.overclock.net/graphics-ca...time-last.html
The rank thread has the 460 ahead. It's cheaper, shorter, and cooler cause of the GF104.
Should there be any other doubt in your mind which you should get?
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it came from here- GTX 460 vs GTX 465 - Overclock.net - Overclocking.net
This is (maybe) a different point of view (or not, I didn't actually read it)- GTX 465 vs. GTX 460 - Nvidia - Graphic-Displays
Happy reading-
again
Bill
this is a cut paste-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.overclock.net/graphics-ca...time-last.html
The rank thread has the 460 ahead. It's cheaper, shorter, and cooler cause of the GF104.
Should there be any other doubt in your mind which you should get?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
it came from here- GTX 460 vs GTX 465 - Overclock.net - Overclocking.net
This is (maybe) a different point of view (or not, I didn't actually read it)- GTX 465 vs. GTX 460 - Nvidia - Graphic-Displays
Happy reading-
again
Bill
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